Chef's Salty Chocolate Balls
2 tablespoons of cinnamon,
and 2 or 3 egg whites,
a half a stick of butter, melted.
Stick it all in a bowl baby,
stir it with a wooden spoon,
mix in a cup of flour.
You''l be in heaven soon
Say everybody have you seen my balls they're big and salty and brown.
If you ever need a quick pick me up, just stick my balls in your mouth.
Oh! Suck on my chocolate salty balls, put 'em in your mouth and suck 'em.
Suck on my chocolate salty balls, they're packed vitamins,
and good for you, so suck on balls.
pour in a cup of unsweetened chocolate,
and a half a cup of brandy
then throw in a bag or two of sugar,
and just a pinch of vanilla,
grease up the cookie sheet.
Cause I hate when my balls stick!
then preheat the oven to 350, and give that spoon a lick!
Say everybody have you seen my balls they're big and salty and brown.
If you ever need a quick pick me up, just stick my balls in your mouth.
Oh! Suck on my chocolate salty balls, put 'em in your mouth and suck 'em.
Suck on my chocolate salty balls, they're packed full of goodness,
and high in fiber, so suck on balls.
(Chef Speaking:) sniff, sniff, hey, wait a minute, what's that smell.
It smells like something's burning.
Well, that don't bother me none, as long as I get my rent paid on Friday.
Baby, you better get back in the kitchen, cause I got a sneakn' suspition.
Oh man baby, baby, you just burnt my balls.
My balls are on fire, come on, my balls are burning, gimme some water pour some water on 'em, o goodness, blow
on them, do something
Say everybody have you seen my balls they're big and salty and brown. (they're on fire baby)
If you ever need a quick pick me up, just stick my balls in your mouth.
Oh! Suck on my chocolate salty balls, put 'em in your mouth and suck 'em. (Put 'em out, blow on 'em.)
suck on my balls baby,
suck on my balls baby, suck on my red hot salty chocolate balls.
Woo, woo, suck on my balls (blow, blow, blow)
Friday 23 August 2002
Sunday 11 August 2002
Recipe for Mini Tube Soap More
1. Melt 1 pound of soap in a double boiler.
2. Do not fragrance the soap. Color it with your desired cosmetic colorant.
3. Prepare the tube mold by making sure the bottom is snapped on tightly. I find it easiest to snap the middle on and work my way out.
4. Pour the soap into the mold.
5. Let the soap harden.
6. Place the mold in the freezer for 30 minutes.
7. Take the mold out of the freezer and run under warm water for a minute or so.
8. Take the bottom of the mold off and push the glycerin soap tube out of the mold with the eraser end of a pencil.
1. Melt 1 pound of soap in a double boiler.
2. Do not fragrance the soap. Color it with your desired cosmetic colorant.
3. Prepare the tube mold by making sure the bottom is snapped on tightly. I find it easiest to snap the middle on and work my way out.
4. Pour the soap into the mold.
5. Let the soap harden.
6. Place the mold in the freezer for 30 minutes.
7. Take the mold out of the freezer and run under warm water for a minute or so.
8. Take the bottom of the mold off and push the glycerin soap tube out of the mold with the eraser end of a pencil.
Glycerin with Shea Butter
Ingredients
2 cups glycerin soap base
2 tablespoons melted shea butter
5 drops orange essential oil
Instructions
Mix ingredients thoroughly, pour into molds.
This soap is a good moisturizer. Shea butter has some sun protection qualities, but be sure to still put on the sunscreen!
Marmalade Soap
Ingredients
2 3/4 cups (400g)grated glycerin soap
orange coloring (can use mace powder (2tsp/10ml) mixed with (4 T/60ml) of veg. oil)
1 teaspoon/5 ml sweet orange essential oil
Pinch each of dried marigold or chamomile flowers and pinch of dried orange zest
Instructions
Melt glycerin soap over low heat in double boiler. Add color as melting nears completion and turn off heat. Stir in essential oil. Pour into molds. Mix in flowers and zest with a toothpick as soap cools in the mold.
This soap has a nice fragrance and interesting look. As with all glycerin soaps, wrap tightly as the glycerin will attract moisture from the air.
Strawberry Cream Soap
Ingredients
1 pound white glycerin soap base
1 teaspoon sugar
4 tablespoons Sweet Almond oil
2 drops of red coloring
5 drops strawberry fragrance oil
10 drops vanilla fragrance oil
Instructions
Melt glycerin in microwave. Add almond oil, color and fragrance. Stir until mixed. Pour into molds. Cool.
You could also make orange cream by substituting orange essential oil and color for the strawberry.
Aloe and Nettle Soap
Ingredients
1 cup glycerin soap base
1/8 cup aloe vera gel
2 tablespoons powdered nettle leaf (available in capsule form that makes it easier to handle and store)
or you can use simmered, macerated fresh leaf
Instructions
Melt glycerin in microwave. I like using a large pyrex measuring cup. Mix in aloe and nettle. Pour into molds. Cool.
Don't touch fresh nettle leaves without wearing gloves and tranport in disposable bags. When fresh, undried or before being boiled, nettle's have a very fine fuzz on the surface that carries formic acid. Same dissipates after drying or boiling.
Calamine Soap
Ingredients
1 tablespoon calamine powder (or two tablespoons calamine lotion)
1 tablespoon bentonite or cosmetic-grade clay
2 tablespoons liquid glycerin
1 cup glycerin soap base
Instructions
MIx the calamine, clay, and liquid glycerin until smooth, adding a small amount of water, if needed. Whisk the mixture into the soap base, pour into molds, and cool.
Calamine soap is mild and good for skin irritations, such as poison ivy.
Lavender and Rosemary Soap
Ingredients
3 cups glycerin soap base
1/4 cup infusion of lavender flowers and rosemary leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons of lavender oil
1 1/2 teaspoons of rosemary oil
1 teaspoon pulverized dried rosemary
Instructions
Melt soap base and add other ingredients. Stir until blended, then pour into molds.
Infusion basically means to make tea. Pour hot water over fresh or dried plant parts. Three tablespoons of herb per cup of water for ten minutes should do fine. Use distilled water, if possible. Nonchlorinated water is best.
Tea Tree Antiseptic Soap
Ingredients
2 cups glycerin soap base
2 tablespoons tea tree oil
Instructions
Melt glycerin base in the microwave at 30 second intervals. Blend in tea tree oil and pour into molds. Place molds in the freezer for ten minutes for a quicker set up. It is also easier to remove soap from the molds after freezing. Set the unmolded soap onto plastic needlepoint sheets for drying-one hour before using. Let dry overnight before wrapping.
Tea tree oil is an essential oil extracted from the leaves of the Australian tea tree. The oil works agains bacteria, fungi, yeasts, and viruses that attack the skin. It is a nice deoderant soap which is effective in cleaning out minor cuts and treating athlete's foot.
Rosemary and Lavender Soap
Ingredients
3 cups glycerin soap base
1/4 cup infusion of rosemary leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons lavender oil
Instructions
Take four snips of fresh Rosemary of one teaspoon dried. Pour one cup of boiling water over same. Let sit one hour and strain. Melt glycerin in saucepan on low heat. Add 1/4 cup of infusion (remainder can be stored in refridgerator for another batch). Stir in lavender essential oil and any color desired. Pour into molds and procede as usual.
The lavender and rosemary have a mild stimulating effect on the skin. This soap makes a great gift. It is especially recommended for the bath.
Honey Bee Soap
Ingredients
1 tablespoon beeswax
1 cup melted opaque soap base
1 tablespoon honey
Instructions
Melt beeswax in double boiler and mix with melted soap base. Add honey and stir until melted. Pour into mold. Unmold when hardened. Let cure on a drying rack.
Try using a bee skip (hive) mold. This is a smooth, light fragrance soap.
Transparent Soap
This is a basic recipe for "glycerin" soap. Actually, all homemade soaps are glycerin soaps because the natural glycerin in them has not been removed. This recipe is for what we think of when we say glycerin soap.
Ingredients
1 pound 9 ounces distilled water
12 ounces lye
2 pounds 8 ounces palm oil
1 pound coconut oil
1 pound 9 ounces castor oil
1 pound 12 ounces ethanol
8 ounces glycerin
15 ounces distilled water with 1 pound 4 ounces sugar dissolved into a solution
Instructions
Measure and mix the lye and water. Allow to cool until between 135 and 145 degrees F. (57-62 Celsius)
Heat the oils and bring to the same temperature as the lye solution.
Once the lye and oils are the same temperature, mix and stir for five minutes.
Add the alcohol and stir another five minutes. This should form a clear solution.
Prepare a plastic cover for the soap pot. A large piece of 4 ml plastic should be secured with a bungee cord. Make sure there is some extra plastic draping over as this will need to expand a little and must stay secured. Secure a second piece of plastic in the same manner to reduce the evaporation of alcohol during boiling.
Set the soap pot in a larger pot filled with three inches of softly boiling water.
Within five minutes the soap mixture should begin to boil and the plastic will puff up. Adjust the temperature on the stove to keep this gently boil going inside the soap pot. This solution need two hours to saponify/neutralize. Check the plastic to make sure it doesn't escape from the bungee cord.
After two hours, stir in the glycerin and the sugar solution. Stir for about three minutes. To test put a spoonful of soap onto an inverted glass. Once cool, is it clear? If not try adding two ounces more of alcohol, which may have escaped during boiling.
Cover and let sit for 15 minutes before adding dye or fragrance.
Use caution when adding alcohol to simmering soap. Be certain the soap is not too hot. Do not boil.
Translucent Soap
This is another basic recipe for "glycerin" soap.
Ingredients
16 ounces (454 g) coconut oil
6 ounces (170 g) tallow
2 four-ounce (113 g) bottles of castor oil
4 ounces (113 g) lye
10 ounces (283 g) water
8 ounces (227 g) granulated sugar
10 ounces (283 g) 80 proof vodka
Instructions
Take the oil, fat, lye and water and Follow Basic Soap instructions.
Allow soap to set up for two days.
Slice/grate the soap into small pieces. Use gloves during this process because the lye may be still active.
Melt over low heat until gently simmering.
As the soap is melted, add the sugar and the vodka. Mix in gently to avoid sudsing which can make final bars murky instead of clear.
Continue to simmer for 10 minutes to boil off the alcohol. A layer will form on the top but underneath should be clear.
Remove from heat and skim off top coating. This can be used to make soap balls.
Pour the soap into individual molds.
Use caution when adding alcohol to simmering soap. Be certain the soap is not too hot. Do not boil.
Ingredients
2 cups glycerin soap base
2 tablespoons melted shea butter
5 drops orange essential oil
Instructions
Mix ingredients thoroughly, pour into molds.
This soap is a good moisturizer. Shea butter has some sun protection qualities, but be sure to still put on the sunscreen!
Marmalade Soap
Ingredients
2 3/4 cups (400g)grated glycerin soap
orange coloring (can use mace powder (2tsp/10ml) mixed with (4 T/60ml) of veg. oil)
1 teaspoon/5 ml sweet orange essential oil
Pinch each of dried marigold or chamomile flowers and pinch of dried orange zest
Instructions
Melt glycerin soap over low heat in double boiler. Add color as melting nears completion and turn off heat. Stir in essential oil. Pour into molds. Mix in flowers and zest with a toothpick as soap cools in the mold.
This soap has a nice fragrance and interesting look. As with all glycerin soaps, wrap tightly as the glycerin will attract moisture from the air.
Strawberry Cream Soap
Ingredients
1 pound white glycerin soap base
1 teaspoon sugar
4 tablespoons Sweet Almond oil
2 drops of red coloring
5 drops strawberry fragrance oil
10 drops vanilla fragrance oil
Instructions
Melt glycerin in microwave. Add almond oil, color and fragrance. Stir until mixed. Pour into molds. Cool.
You could also make orange cream by substituting orange essential oil and color for the strawberry.
Aloe and Nettle Soap
Ingredients
1 cup glycerin soap base
1/8 cup aloe vera gel
2 tablespoons powdered nettle leaf (available in capsule form that makes it easier to handle and store)
or you can use simmered, macerated fresh leaf
Instructions
Melt glycerin in microwave. I like using a large pyrex measuring cup. Mix in aloe and nettle. Pour into molds. Cool.
Don't touch fresh nettle leaves without wearing gloves and tranport in disposable bags. When fresh, undried or before being boiled, nettle's have a very fine fuzz on the surface that carries formic acid. Same dissipates after drying or boiling.
Calamine Soap
Ingredients
1 tablespoon calamine powder (or two tablespoons calamine lotion)
1 tablespoon bentonite or cosmetic-grade clay
2 tablespoons liquid glycerin
1 cup glycerin soap base
Instructions
MIx the calamine, clay, and liquid glycerin until smooth, adding a small amount of water, if needed. Whisk the mixture into the soap base, pour into molds, and cool.
Calamine soap is mild and good for skin irritations, such as poison ivy.
Lavender and Rosemary Soap
Ingredients
3 cups glycerin soap base
1/4 cup infusion of lavender flowers and rosemary leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons of lavender oil
1 1/2 teaspoons of rosemary oil
1 teaspoon pulverized dried rosemary
Instructions
Melt soap base and add other ingredients. Stir until blended, then pour into molds.
Infusion basically means to make tea. Pour hot water over fresh or dried plant parts. Three tablespoons of herb per cup of water for ten minutes should do fine. Use distilled water, if possible. Nonchlorinated water is best.
Tea Tree Antiseptic Soap
Ingredients
2 cups glycerin soap base
2 tablespoons tea tree oil
Instructions
Melt glycerin base in the microwave at 30 second intervals. Blend in tea tree oil and pour into molds. Place molds in the freezer for ten minutes for a quicker set up. It is also easier to remove soap from the molds after freezing. Set the unmolded soap onto plastic needlepoint sheets for drying-one hour before using. Let dry overnight before wrapping.
Tea tree oil is an essential oil extracted from the leaves of the Australian tea tree. The oil works agains bacteria, fungi, yeasts, and viruses that attack the skin. It is a nice deoderant soap which is effective in cleaning out minor cuts and treating athlete's foot.
Rosemary and Lavender Soap
Ingredients
3 cups glycerin soap base
1/4 cup infusion of rosemary leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons lavender oil
Instructions
Take four snips of fresh Rosemary of one teaspoon dried. Pour one cup of boiling water over same. Let sit one hour and strain. Melt glycerin in saucepan on low heat. Add 1/4 cup of infusion (remainder can be stored in refridgerator for another batch). Stir in lavender essential oil and any color desired. Pour into molds and procede as usual.
The lavender and rosemary have a mild stimulating effect on the skin. This soap makes a great gift. It is especially recommended for the bath.
Honey Bee Soap
Ingredients
1 tablespoon beeswax
1 cup melted opaque soap base
1 tablespoon honey
Instructions
Melt beeswax in double boiler and mix with melted soap base. Add honey and stir until melted. Pour into mold. Unmold when hardened. Let cure on a drying rack.
Try using a bee skip (hive) mold. This is a smooth, light fragrance soap.
Transparent Soap
This is a basic recipe for "glycerin" soap. Actually, all homemade soaps are glycerin soaps because the natural glycerin in them has not been removed. This recipe is for what we think of when we say glycerin soap.
Ingredients
1 pound 9 ounces distilled water
12 ounces lye
2 pounds 8 ounces palm oil
1 pound coconut oil
1 pound 9 ounces castor oil
1 pound 12 ounces ethanol
8 ounces glycerin
15 ounces distilled water with 1 pound 4 ounces sugar dissolved into a solution
Instructions
Measure and mix the lye and water. Allow to cool until between 135 and 145 degrees F. (57-62 Celsius)
Heat the oils and bring to the same temperature as the lye solution.
Once the lye and oils are the same temperature, mix and stir for five minutes.
Add the alcohol and stir another five minutes. This should form a clear solution.
Prepare a plastic cover for the soap pot. A large piece of 4 ml plastic should be secured with a bungee cord. Make sure there is some extra plastic draping over as this will need to expand a little and must stay secured. Secure a second piece of plastic in the same manner to reduce the evaporation of alcohol during boiling.
Set the soap pot in a larger pot filled with three inches of softly boiling water.
Within five minutes the soap mixture should begin to boil and the plastic will puff up. Adjust the temperature on the stove to keep this gently boil going inside the soap pot. This solution need two hours to saponify/neutralize. Check the plastic to make sure it doesn't escape from the bungee cord.
After two hours, stir in the glycerin and the sugar solution. Stir for about three minutes. To test put a spoonful of soap onto an inverted glass. Once cool, is it clear? If not try adding two ounces more of alcohol, which may have escaped during boiling.
Cover and let sit for 15 minutes before adding dye or fragrance.
Use caution when adding alcohol to simmering soap. Be certain the soap is not too hot. Do not boil.
Translucent Soap
This is another basic recipe for "glycerin" soap.
Ingredients
16 ounces (454 g) coconut oil
6 ounces (170 g) tallow
2 four-ounce (113 g) bottles of castor oil
4 ounces (113 g) lye
10 ounces (283 g) water
8 ounces (227 g) granulated sugar
10 ounces (283 g) 80 proof vodka
Instructions
Take the oil, fat, lye and water and Follow Basic Soap instructions.
Allow soap to set up for two days.
Slice/grate the soap into small pieces. Use gloves during this process because the lye may be still active.
Melt over low heat until gently simmering.
As the soap is melted, add the sugar and the vodka. Mix in gently to avoid sudsing which can make final bars murky instead of clear.
Continue to simmer for 10 minutes to boil off the alcohol. A layer will form on the top but underneath should be clear.
Remove from heat and skim off top coating. This can be used to make soap balls.
Pour the soap into individual molds.
Use caution when adding alcohol to simmering soap. Be certain the soap is not too hot. Do not boil.
basic instructions for melt-and-pour soap recipe
Materials and Supplies:
4 oz clear glycerin soap base
4-8 drops soap fragrance
4-oz capacity soap mold
microwave-safe measuring cup (2-cup size)
instant-read thermometer
spray bottle filled with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol
vegetable oil in oil mister or vegetable oil
(do not use pan spray)
Instructions:
Prepare the soap mold by spritzing lightly with vegetable oil sprayer and wiping nearly dry.
Cut clear glycerin soap base in 1-inch chunks. Place soap in a microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat on High for 15 seconds, then for 5 second intervals until soap is melted. Do not allow soap to boil. Remove measuring cup from microwave.
Add fragrance, colorant, and soap glitter if desired. Add these ingredients sparingly, a drop at a time. General guidelines are 1 to 4 drops soap fragrance per ounce, 1 to 4 drops colorant per 4-ounce bar. Mix gently but thoroughly after each addition.
Insert an instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup), move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared mold.
Immediately spritz the soap surface with a light mist of rubbing alcohol to control any bubbles that have risen to the surface.
Cool soap completely before attempting to unmold. You may put the mold in the refrigerator to cool, but do not put it in the freezer. Press the mold gently with your thumb to unmold.
Allow soap to cure 3 to 4 weeks before wrapping. Wrap completed soap with clear plastic food wrap, and attach a gift label with soap contents listed.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
Materials and Supplies:
4 oz clear glycerin soap base
4-8 drops soap fragrance
4-oz capacity soap mold
microwave-safe measuring cup (2-cup size)
instant-read thermometer
spray bottle filled with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol
vegetable oil in oil mister or vegetable oil
(do not use pan spray)
Instructions:
Prepare the soap mold by spritzing lightly with vegetable oil sprayer and wiping nearly dry.
Cut clear glycerin soap base in 1-inch chunks. Place soap in a microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat on High for 15 seconds, then for 5 second intervals until soap is melted. Do not allow soap to boil. Remove measuring cup from microwave.
Add fragrance, colorant, and soap glitter if desired. Add these ingredients sparingly, a drop at a time. General guidelines are 1 to 4 drops soap fragrance per ounce, 1 to 4 drops colorant per 4-ounce bar. Mix gently but thoroughly after each addition.
Insert an instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup), move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared mold.
Immediately spritz the soap surface with a light mist of rubbing alcohol to control any bubbles that have risen to the surface.
Cool soap completely before attempting to unmold. You may put the mold in the refrigerator to cool, but do not put it in the freezer. Press the mold gently with your thumb to unmold.
Allow soap to cure 3 to 4 weeks before wrapping. Wrap completed soap with clear plastic food wrap, and attach a gift label with soap contents listed.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
tips for melt-and-pour soap
by Cynthia Townley Ewer
Editor, OrganizedHome.Com
New to melt-and-pour soap, but you're ready to try this new craft? Keep these tips in mind for soap success. They'll help take you from newbie to master crafter in short order.
kit and caboodle
Brand-new to soap craft? Try a kit! Soap-making kits contain everything you'll need to create your first projects. They're usually a bit less expensive than purchasing components separately, and they can teach you the ins and outs of a new craft quickly. A good kit will spark your imagination for more ambitious endeavors, start you off with an assortment of tools and supplies, and give motivation a boost. Find kits at crafts stores, or look online for soap kits at joann.com:
patience is a virtue
All told, melt-and-pour soap-making requires only simple skills: cut, heat, cool and pour. Try to rush the job, however, and you'll mar the final product.
Patience is a virtue with soap-making. Each bar is built as a series of steps, with time between to allow for cooling of the soap base, hardening of poured soaps to support soap inclusions, and cooling completely before removing from the molds. Rush any of these processes, and you'll see the adverse reaction in the soap.
measure by measure
Soap-making isn't a difficult process, but it requires precision. Save time and soap mistakes by using an instant-read thermometer. It will monitor soap temperature precisely, saving time and patience. Add a timer so you can safely attend to other tasks when soap cools.
less is more
At each step of the soap-making process, less is more. When heating cubes of soap base, microwave in short bursts, checking often--soap melts much more quickly than you might think. Overheating can cause quality to decline (and create a microwave mess), so never allow melted soap to boil.
Scent should be added sparingly. Soap, unlike other scented products, has scent embedded throughout the product; as it's used, more scent releases. There's no need to over-scent for fear that the fragrance will dissipate. Noses become overloaded quickly when using scented products. Remind yourself that what you smell after an hour of crafting is only a tiny fraction of what a fresh nose will experience. As a guideline, use only 1 to 4 drops of scent per ounce of soap.
Color soaps with a light hand. Over-use of colorant, even made specially for use in soap products, can cause staining when the soap is used. Add colorant drop by drop, blending well after each addition. It's easier to add a bit more colorant than it is to try to rescue an over-colored soap!
tips of the trade
Soap experts know that rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol in a spray bottle is an essential piece of soap-crafting equipment. Use a light spritz of alcohol on all soap inclusions. Alcohol will enhance adhesion and remove any bubbles from the surface of the inclusion. Another spritz to the back-side of a newly-poured bar removes tiny bubbles that cloud clear soaps.
To oil or not to oil? Published soap references differ on the use of pan spray to lubricate soap molds. Most authorities recommend against using pan spray. Instead, use an oil mister to deliver a very fine mist of vegetable cooking oil to the mold. Wipe nearly dry with a paper towel before pouring soap into the mold.
Don't rush! Molds release best when the soap is thoroughly cooled. Removing soaps too early can cause stress marks in clear bars. In hot weather, do put cooling soap molds in the refrigerator to make unmolding easier. Never freeze soap, however.
a squeaky clean ending
Soap is soap, and dishwasher detergent is detergent, and never the twain should meet. Soak soap-making equipment and remove soap residue completely before placing in the dishwasher. Soap residue can cause excessive sudsing, suds lock and dishwasher flooding. [Go on ... ask me how I know!]
by Cynthia Townley Ewer
Editor, OrganizedHome.Com
New to melt-and-pour soap, but you're ready to try this new craft? Keep these tips in mind for soap success. They'll help take you from newbie to master crafter in short order.
kit and caboodle
Brand-new to soap craft? Try a kit! Soap-making kits contain everything you'll need to create your first projects. They're usually a bit less expensive than purchasing components separately, and they can teach you the ins and outs of a new craft quickly. A good kit will spark your imagination for more ambitious endeavors, start you off with an assortment of tools and supplies, and give motivation a boost. Find kits at crafts stores, or look online for soap kits at joann.com:
patience is a virtue
All told, melt-and-pour soap-making requires only simple skills: cut, heat, cool and pour. Try to rush the job, however, and you'll mar the final product.
Patience is a virtue with soap-making. Each bar is built as a series of steps, with time between to allow for cooling of the soap base, hardening of poured soaps to support soap inclusions, and cooling completely before removing from the molds. Rush any of these processes, and you'll see the adverse reaction in the soap.
measure by measure
Soap-making isn't a difficult process, but it requires precision. Save time and soap mistakes by using an instant-read thermometer. It will monitor soap temperature precisely, saving time and patience. Add a timer so you can safely attend to other tasks when soap cools.
less is more
At each step of the soap-making process, less is more. When heating cubes of soap base, microwave in short bursts, checking often--soap melts much more quickly than you might think. Overheating can cause quality to decline (and create a microwave mess), so never allow melted soap to boil.
Scent should be added sparingly. Soap, unlike other scented products, has scent embedded throughout the product; as it's used, more scent releases. There's no need to over-scent for fear that the fragrance will dissipate. Noses become overloaded quickly when using scented products. Remind yourself that what you smell after an hour of crafting is only a tiny fraction of what a fresh nose will experience. As a guideline, use only 1 to 4 drops of scent per ounce of soap.
Color soaps with a light hand. Over-use of colorant, even made specially for use in soap products, can cause staining when the soap is used. Add colorant drop by drop, blending well after each addition. It's easier to add a bit more colorant than it is to try to rescue an over-colored soap!
tips of the trade
Soap experts know that rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol in a spray bottle is an essential piece of soap-crafting equipment. Use a light spritz of alcohol on all soap inclusions. Alcohol will enhance adhesion and remove any bubbles from the surface of the inclusion. Another spritz to the back-side of a newly-poured bar removes tiny bubbles that cloud clear soaps.
To oil or not to oil? Published soap references differ on the use of pan spray to lubricate soap molds. Most authorities recommend against using pan spray. Instead, use an oil mister to deliver a very fine mist of vegetable cooking oil to the mold. Wipe nearly dry with a paper towel before pouring soap into the mold.
Don't rush! Molds release best when the soap is thoroughly cooled. Removing soaps too early can cause stress marks in clear bars. In hot weather, do put cooling soap molds in the refrigerator to make unmolding easier. Never freeze soap, however.
a squeaky clean ending
Soap is soap, and dishwasher detergent is detergent, and never the twain should meet. Soak soap-making equipment and remove soap residue completely before placing in the dishwasher. Soap residue can cause excessive sudsing, suds lock and dishwasher flooding. [Go on ... ask me how I know!]
starry night
melt-and-pour soap recipe
by Cynthia Townley Ewer
Editor, OrganizedHome.Com
Transparent soap the color of the sky. A crescent moon and shining star glow through a sweep of glitter stars.
This project teaches how to add cut-out opaque soap inclusions to clear bars.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
Materials and Supplies:
3 oz clear glycerin soap base
1 oz opaque glycerin soap base
small pinch soap glitter
2 drops blue soap colorant
8 drops soap fragrance
4 oz-capacity soap mold
microwave-safe measuring cup (2-cup size)
instant-read thermometer
small loaf pan
small moon and star cookie cutters
spray bottle filled with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol
bamboo skewers
vegetable oil in oil mister or vegetable oil
(do not use pan spray)
Instructions:
Spritz loaf pan sheet with vegetable oil.
Cut opaque soap base into 1/2-inch chunks and place in microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat in microwave for on High for 10 seconds, followed by 5 second intervals until melted. Do not allow soap to boil.
Insert instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup, move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared loaf pan. Soap should measure 1/8th to 1/4-th inch thick.
Allow to cool until nearly hard, about 15-20 minutes. Use cookie cutters to cut out small moon and star shapes from the opaque soap. Remove from pan and set aside.
Prepare the soap mold by spritzing lightly with vegetable oil sprayer and wiping nearly dry.
Cut clear glycerin soap base in 1-inch chunks. Place three ounces soap in a microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat on High for 15 seconds, then for 5 second intervals until soap is melted. Do not allow soap to boil.
Remove measuring cup from microwave. Stir in 8 drops soap fragrance, mixing thoroughly. Add 2 drops blue colorant and mix. Add small pinch of soap glitter, and stir gently.
Insert an instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup), move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared mold, filling the mold 1/4th to 1/3rd full.
Allow mold to stand for 5 to 10 minutes, until it has formed a skin strong enough to support the opaque soap pieces. Spritz moon and star lightly with rubbing alcohol, and place gently on the cooled soap film. Use the bamboo skewers to make any tiny adjustments necessary. Allow to cool for 10 to 15 minutes.
Reheat remaining soap in measuring cup, stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour soap gently over opaque moon and star, adding only enough soap to barely cover moon and star. Allow soap in mold to cool and form a skin for 10 to 15 minutes.
When inclusions are fairly firmly embedded in cooled soap, reheat the remaining soap in the measuring cup. Stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour remaining soap into the mold, filling the mold completely. Immediately spritz the soap surface with a light mist of rubbing alcohol to control any bubbles that have risen to the surface.
Cool soap completely before attempting to unmold. You may put the mold in the refrigerator to cool, but do not put it in the freezer. Press the mold gently with your thumb to unmold.
Allow 3 to 4 weeks for soap to cure before wrapping. Wrap completed soap with clear plastic food wrap, and attach a gift label with soap contents listed.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
melt-and-pour soap recipe
by Cynthia Townley Ewer
Editor, OrganizedHome.Com
Transparent soap the color of the sky. A crescent moon and shining star glow through a sweep of glitter stars.
This project teaches how to add cut-out opaque soap inclusions to clear bars.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
Materials and Supplies:
3 oz clear glycerin soap base
1 oz opaque glycerin soap base
small pinch soap glitter
2 drops blue soap colorant
8 drops soap fragrance
4 oz-capacity soap mold
microwave-safe measuring cup (2-cup size)
instant-read thermometer
small loaf pan
small moon and star cookie cutters
spray bottle filled with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol
bamboo skewers
vegetable oil in oil mister or vegetable oil
(do not use pan spray)
Instructions:
Spritz loaf pan sheet with vegetable oil.
Cut opaque soap base into 1/2-inch chunks and place in microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat in microwave for on High for 10 seconds, followed by 5 second intervals until melted. Do not allow soap to boil.
Insert instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup, move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared loaf pan. Soap should measure 1/8th to 1/4-th inch thick.
Allow to cool until nearly hard, about 15-20 minutes. Use cookie cutters to cut out small moon and star shapes from the opaque soap. Remove from pan and set aside.
Prepare the soap mold by spritzing lightly with vegetable oil sprayer and wiping nearly dry.
Cut clear glycerin soap base in 1-inch chunks. Place three ounces soap in a microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat on High for 15 seconds, then for 5 second intervals until soap is melted. Do not allow soap to boil.
Remove measuring cup from microwave. Stir in 8 drops soap fragrance, mixing thoroughly. Add 2 drops blue colorant and mix. Add small pinch of soap glitter, and stir gently.
Insert an instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup), move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared mold, filling the mold 1/4th to 1/3rd full.
Allow mold to stand for 5 to 10 minutes, until it has formed a skin strong enough to support the opaque soap pieces. Spritz moon and star lightly with rubbing alcohol, and place gently on the cooled soap film. Use the bamboo skewers to make any tiny adjustments necessary. Allow to cool for 10 to 15 minutes.
Reheat remaining soap in measuring cup, stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour soap gently over opaque moon and star, adding only enough soap to barely cover moon and star. Allow soap in mold to cool and form a skin for 10 to 15 minutes.
When inclusions are fairly firmly embedded in cooled soap, reheat the remaining soap in the measuring cup. Stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour remaining soap into the mold, filling the mold completely. Immediately spritz the soap surface with a light mist of rubbing alcohol to control any bubbles that have risen to the surface.
Cool soap completely before attempting to unmold. You may put the mold in the refrigerator to cool, but do not put it in the freezer. Press the mold gently with your thumb to unmold.
Allow 3 to 4 weeks for soap to cure before wrapping. Wrap completed soap with clear plastic food wrap, and attach a gift label with soap contents listed.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
alphabet blocks
melt-and-pour soap recipe
by Cynthia Townley Ewer
Editor, OrganizedHome.Com
Splish-splash! A special child's name embedded in a bar of clear soap makes bath time fun for little ones. Pre-cut foam shapes make it easy.
More ideas? Add holiday messages to soaps for the guest room. For a "lady of the manor" touch, create personalized soaps with monograms or the family name for guest baths.
Makes 2 4-ounce bars.
Materials and Supplies:
8 oz clear glycerin soap base
16 drops soap fragrance
2 4-oz capacity soap molds
"fun foam" alphabet letters
microwave-safe measuring cup (2-cup size)
instant-read thermometer
spray bottle filled with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol
bamboo skewers
vegetable oil in oil mister or vegetable oil
(do not use pan spray)
Instructions:
Prepare the soap molds by spritzing lightly with vegetable oil sprayer and wiping nearly dry.
Cut clear glycerin soap base in 1-inch chunks. Place four ounces soap in a microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat on High for 15 seconds, then for 5 second intervals until soap is melted. Do not allow soap to boil.
Remove measuring cup from microwave. Stir in 8 drops soap fragrance, mixing thoroughly.
Insert an instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup), move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared mold, filling the mold 1/4th to 1/3rd full.
While waiting, arrange letters to form the desired name. Reverse each letter (so it points backward) and reverse the order of the letters. Check with a mirror to make sure the name reads correctly when reversed.
Allow mold to stand for 5 to 10 minutes, until it has formed a skin strong enough to support the foam letter pieces. Spritz letters lightly with rubbing alcohol, and place letters in reverse gently on the cooled soap film. Use the bamboo skewers to make any tiny adjustments necessary. Allow to cool for 10 to 15 minutes.
Place remaining 4 ounces soap in measuring cup and heat. Add 8 drops soap fragrance, stir thoroughly and cool to 120 degrees. Pour soap gently over alphabet pieces, adding only enough soap to barely cover. Allow soap in mold to cool and form a skin for 10 to 15 minutes.
When alphabet letters are firmly embedded in cooled soap, reheat the remaining soap in the measuring cup. Stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour remaining soap into the mold, covering letters completely. Immediately spritz the soap surface with a light mist of rubbing alcohol to control any bubbles that have risen to the surface.
Cool soap completely before attempting to unmold. You may put the mold in the refrigerator to cool, but do not put it in the freezer. Press the mold gently with your thumb to unmold.
Allow soap to cure for 2 to 3 weeks before wrapping. Wrap completed soap with clear plastic food wrap, and attach a gift label with soap contents listed.
Makes 2 4-ounce bars.
melt-and-pour soap recipe
by Cynthia Townley Ewer
Editor, OrganizedHome.Com
Splish-splash! A special child's name embedded in a bar of clear soap makes bath time fun for little ones. Pre-cut foam shapes make it easy.
More ideas? Add holiday messages to soaps for the guest room. For a "lady of the manor" touch, create personalized soaps with monograms or the family name for guest baths.
Makes 2 4-ounce bars.
Materials and Supplies:
8 oz clear glycerin soap base
16 drops soap fragrance
2 4-oz capacity soap molds
"fun foam" alphabet letters
microwave-safe measuring cup (2-cup size)
instant-read thermometer
spray bottle filled with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol
bamboo skewers
vegetable oil in oil mister or vegetable oil
(do not use pan spray)
Instructions:
Prepare the soap molds by spritzing lightly with vegetable oil sprayer and wiping nearly dry.
Cut clear glycerin soap base in 1-inch chunks. Place four ounces soap in a microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat on High for 15 seconds, then for 5 second intervals until soap is melted. Do not allow soap to boil.
Remove measuring cup from microwave. Stir in 8 drops soap fragrance, mixing thoroughly.
Insert an instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup), move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared mold, filling the mold 1/4th to 1/3rd full.
While waiting, arrange letters to form the desired name. Reverse each letter (so it points backward) and reverse the order of the letters. Check with a mirror to make sure the name reads correctly when reversed.
Allow mold to stand for 5 to 10 minutes, until it has formed a skin strong enough to support the foam letter pieces. Spritz letters lightly with rubbing alcohol, and place letters in reverse gently on the cooled soap film. Use the bamboo skewers to make any tiny adjustments necessary. Allow to cool for 10 to 15 minutes.
Place remaining 4 ounces soap in measuring cup and heat. Add 8 drops soap fragrance, stir thoroughly and cool to 120 degrees. Pour soap gently over alphabet pieces, adding only enough soap to barely cover. Allow soap in mold to cool and form a skin for 10 to 15 minutes.
When alphabet letters are firmly embedded in cooled soap, reheat the remaining soap in the measuring cup. Stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour remaining soap into the mold, covering letters completely. Immediately spritz the soap surface with a light mist of rubbing alcohol to control any bubbles that have risen to the surface.
Cool soap completely before attempting to unmold. You may put the mold in the refrigerator to cool, but do not put it in the freezer. Press the mold gently with your thumb to unmold.
Allow soap to cure for 2 to 3 weeks before wrapping. Wrap completed soap with clear plastic food wrap, and attach a gift label with soap contents listed.
Makes 2 4-ounce bars.
Confetti Creations
melt-and-pour soap recipe
by Cynthia Townley Ewer
Editor, OrganizedHome.Com
A two-in-one gift for a special little girl: colorful plastic hair ornaments encased in a bar of glittering soap.
Made with clear glycerin soap base, soap fragrance and a pinch of soap glitter, this simple soap is an excellent beginning project.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
Materials and Supplies:
4 oz clear glycerin soap base
small pinch soap glitter
8 drops lavender blossom soap fragrance
assorted small plastic hair ornaments
(we used spiral hair twists)
4 oz-capacity soap mold
microwave-safe measuring cup (2-cup size)
instant-read thermometer
spray bottle filled with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol
bamboo skewers
vegetable oil in oil mister or vegetable oil
(do not use pan spray)
Instructions:
Prepare the soap mold by spritzing lightly with vegetable oil sprayer and wiping nearly dry.
Cut clear glycerin soap base in 1-inch chunks. Place four ounces soap in a microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat on High for 15 seconds, then for 5 second intervals until soap is melted. Do not allow soap to boil.
Remove measuring cup from microwave. Stir in 8 drops soap fragrance, mixing thoroughly. Add small pinch of soap glitter, and stir gently.
Insert an instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup), move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared mold, filling the mold 1/4th to 1/3rd full.
Allow mold to stand for 5 to 10 minutes, until it has formed a skin strong enough to support the hair ornaments. Spritz each hair ornament lightly with rubbing alcohol, and place gently on the cooled soap film. Use the bamboo skewers to make any tiny adjustments necessary.
Reheat remaining soap in measuring cup, stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour soap gently over hair ornaments, adding only enough soap to barely cover ornaments. Allow soap in mold to cool and form a skin for 10 to 15 minutes.
When ornaments are fairly firmly embedded in cooled soap, reheat the remaining soap in the measuring cup. Stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour remaining soap into the mold, covering hair ornaments completely. Immediately spritz the soap surface with a light mist of rubbing alcohol to control any bubbles that have risen to the surface.
Cool soap completely before attempting to unmold. You may put the mold in the refrigerator to cool, but do not put it in the freezer. Press the mold gently with your thumb to unmold.
Allow 3 to 4 weeks for soap to cure before wrapping. Wrap completed soap with clear plastic food wrap, and attach a gift label with soap contents listed.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
melt-and-pour soap recipe
by Cynthia Townley Ewer
Editor, OrganizedHome.Com
A two-in-one gift for a special little girl: colorful plastic hair ornaments encased in a bar of glittering soap.
Made with clear glycerin soap base, soap fragrance and a pinch of soap glitter, this simple soap is an excellent beginning project.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
Materials and Supplies:
4 oz clear glycerin soap base
small pinch soap glitter
8 drops lavender blossom soap fragrance
assorted small plastic hair ornaments
(we used spiral hair twists)
4 oz-capacity soap mold
microwave-safe measuring cup (2-cup size)
instant-read thermometer
spray bottle filled with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol
bamboo skewers
vegetable oil in oil mister or vegetable oil
(do not use pan spray)
Instructions:
Prepare the soap mold by spritzing lightly with vegetable oil sprayer and wiping nearly dry.
Cut clear glycerin soap base in 1-inch chunks. Place four ounces soap in a microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat on High for 15 seconds, then for 5 second intervals until soap is melted. Do not allow soap to boil.
Remove measuring cup from microwave. Stir in 8 drops soap fragrance, mixing thoroughly. Add small pinch of soap glitter, and stir gently.
Insert an instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup), move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared mold, filling the mold 1/4th to 1/3rd full.
Allow mold to stand for 5 to 10 minutes, until it has formed a skin strong enough to support the hair ornaments. Spritz each hair ornament lightly with rubbing alcohol, and place gently on the cooled soap film. Use the bamboo skewers to make any tiny adjustments necessary.
Reheat remaining soap in measuring cup, stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour soap gently over hair ornaments, adding only enough soap to barely cover ornaments. Allow soap in mold to cool and form a skin for 10 to 15 minutes.
When ornaments are fairly firmly embedded in cooled soap, reheat the remaining soap in the measuring cup. Stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour remaining soap into the mold, covering hair ornaments completely. Immediately spritz the soap surface with a light mist of rubbing alcohol to control any bubbles that have risen to the surface.
Cool soap completely before attempting to unmold. You may put the mold in the refrigerator to cool, but do not put it in the freezer. Press the mold gently with your thumb to unmold.
Allow 3 to 4 weeks for soap to cure before wrapping. Wrap completed soap with clear plastic food wrap, and attach a gift label with soap contents listed.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
Glycerin Melt & Pour Soap
Make all kinds of wonderful and beautiful soaps at home.
Glycerin Melt & Pour Soap is so easy to use in crafting! Just about any fragrance or perfume can be added. Melt it on your stove in a double boiler, or in your microwave. Then add all your wonderful fragrances, colors, herbs, flowers, fruits, and your personal creative touch. It is so clear that you can even put toys inside each bar!
You can color it, craft it, pour into fun molds, cut it with cookie cutters! The list is endless. It is the most versatile crafting soap. Many professional soap makers use only glycerin Melt & Pour soap to make their beautiful creations.
Glycerin Melt and Pour soap is sold as transparent (you can see right through it) or Opaque (it is a solid white color). Both can be colored with specially designed color tabs.
There is a great deal of difference between suppliers. You want a Glycerin Melt and Pour Soap Base that doesn't set up really, really fast. You want to be able to work with your soap for a minute before it sets up.
It MUST be very gentle on the skin. Make sure it doesn't have a terrible smell to it. Many of them do and fragrances just aren't going to cover it up. You want a soap that actually smells good!
You want very clear Glycerin soap base without the heavy amber color and is made with 'real' saponified coconut oil, not chemicals. You want REAL soap, not a bunch of chemicals from the lab
Soap Crafters Company is highly recommended for your Glycerin Melt and Pour soap making supplies. Whether you are a first time hobbyist or a professional, you will find both retail and wholesale pricing available right on the web site.
Make all kinds of wonderful and beautiful soaps at home.
Glycerin Melt & Pour Soap is so easy to use in crafting! Just about any fragrance or perfume can be added. Melt it on your stove in a double boiler, or in your microwave. Then add all your wonderful fragrances, colors, herbs, flowers, fruits, and your personal creative touch. It is so clear that you can even put toys inside each bar!
You can color it, craft it, pour into fun molds, cut it with cookie cutters! The list is endless. It is the most versatile crafting soap. Many professional soap makers use only glycerin Melt & Pour soap to make their beautiful creations.
Glycerin Melt and Pour soap is sold as transparent (you can see right through it) or Opaque (it is a solid white color). Both can be colored with specially designed color tabs.
There is a great deal of difference between suppliers. You want a Glycerin Melt and Pour Soap Base that doesn't set up really, really fast. You want to be able to work with your soap for a minute before it sets up.
It MUST be very gentle on the skin. Make sure it doesn't have a terrible smell to it. Many of them do and fragrances just aren't going to cover it up. You want a soap that actually smells good!
You want very clear Glycerin soap base without the heavy amber color and is made with 'real' saponified coconut oil, not chemicals. You want REAL soap, not a bunch of chemicals from the lab
Soap Crafters Company is highly recommended for your Glycerin Melt and Pour soap making supplies. Whether you are a first time hobbyist or a professional, you will find both retail and wholesale pricing available right on the web site.
Bath BOMBS!
Get a bottle of good quality witch hazel (skip the terrible stuff in the drug store) and a "good" quality adjustable fine spritzing bottle. The
recipe is really simple.
1 part citric acid
3 parts baking soda
Witch hazel
EO/FO
Any natural colorings...food coloring is good too.
Any herbs, dried flowers, etc you want to use (about 1/2 a tsp for a small batch, 1 tsp for a larger batch. Less is more.
A decent sized fork for mixing...I use my hands.
A teaspoon for packing the molds... I use my hands here also.
Weigh out your baking soda and citric acid in the ratios above. Dump them together in a bucket, large bowl, whatever. Get all the lumps out with a fork or spoon (crushing). Add your dry colorings (clays, leaves, herbs, roots, flowers etc in small amounts) Add your EO/FO drop by drop till you get the strength of scent you want. Mix well...I put mine in large plastic zip lock bag to mix then pour in a bowl for spritzing.......Mist the mixture with the witch hazel, stir in well. Keep misting and mixing till you get a consistency that will stick together in your hand. It doesn't take much witch hazel, so be careful... When right consistency, press mixture into molds firmly, pack it down good... turn over on hard flat surface if it stays together without breaking you have it right...if it breaks put back in bowl and spritz a LITTLE more....then pack in mold again and turn over after a while you will get the feel for this...let dry several hours and package......I did get this recipe off the
lists and heavily snipped it for my own use not expecting to give it out so don't know who to thank for it...BUT after ruining many ingredients and having bombs get funky with growths must say this is an excellent recipe and seems to really hold up for long time I have some that are 6 months old and still going strong...I package mine in small plastic containers...and make them about 6oz or close to it sell at 5oz for 3.00 better to be overweight then under....
Get a bottle of good quality witch hazel (skip the terrible stuff in the drug store) and a "good" quality adjustable fine spritzing bottle. The
recipe is really simple.
1 part citric acid
3 parts baking soda
Witch hazel
EO/FO
Any natural colorings...food coloring is good too.
Any herbs, dried flowers, etc you want to use (about 1/2 a tsp for a small batch, 1 tsp for a larger batch. Less is more.
A decent sized fork for mixing...I use my hands.
A teaspoon for packing the molds... I use my hands here also.
Weigh out your baking soda and citric acid in the ratios above. Dump them together in a bucket, large bowl, whatever. Get all the lumps out with a fork or spoon (crushing). Add your dry colorings (clays, leaves, herbs, roots, flowers etc in small amounts) Add your EO/FO drop by drop till you get the strength of scent you want. Mix well...I put mine in large plastic zip lock bag to mix then pour in a bowl for spritzing.......Mist the mixture with the witch hazel, stir in well. Keep misting and mixing till you get a consistency that will stick together in your hand. It doesn't take much witch hazel, so be careful... When right consistency, press mixture into molds firmly, pack it down good... turn over on hard flat surface if it stays together without breaking you have it right...if it breaks put back in bowl and spritz a LITTLE more....then pack in mold again and turn over after a while you will get the feel for this...let dry several hours and package......I did get this recipe off the
lists and heavily snipped it for my own use not expecting to give it out so don't know who to thank for it...BUT after ruining many ingredients and having bombs get funky with growths must say this is an excellent recipe and seems to really hold up for long time I have some that are 6 months old and still going strong...I package mine in small plastic containers...and make them about 6oz or close to it sell at 5oz for 3.00 better to be overweight then under....
Bath Bombs
Bath Bombs are great, big Fizzies. You drop one into the bath tub after you get in. They will fizz and give off a cloud of scent in your bath while you soak in the benefits of the baking soda. A god-send for an achy muscle day or a must for a bad attitude day. Wonderful fun! Kids love them as much as mom and dad, maybe even more!
What you will need: or purchase kit
1-1/2 Cups of Baking Soda
1/2 Cup of Citric Acid
Witch Hazel in a fine mist sprayer
Soap Crafters Fragrance
Large Bowl and Spoon
Molds
Optional:
Powdered Colorants (water based)
Lots of Patience
Now it is time to add a little powdered colorant. Just about 1/16th of a teaspoon or less will do! Really! Think in terms of crumbs here. Just a speck goes a very long way.
The colorant is added and now she is going to mix it in. You'll notice that it seems to all disappear. Don't worry about that. When your finished bath bomb hits the
water, all that color comes out in full force. :)
Adding fragrance or essential oils should be done by the drop. An amount as little as 1/4 teaspoon will probably be overpowering in the bath, so add drop by drop until you achieve the strength of scent you're looking for.
Once your scenting material is well blended, then it is time for the tricky part. You need to give the mixture a couple of sprays of witch hazel. Be careful of adding too much. Once you add too much, there is no going back. It will set off the fizz.
So, spritz about 3 or 4 times and stir and spritz and stir, being careful not to over spritz before you stir. You're going to get really tired of spritzing and stirring, but this is how it is done. If you take too long through this process, your Bath Bombs won't stick together very well. Figure you'll spend about 10 minutes spritzing and stirring.
When it is done, it'll stick to itself a bit when you pinch it between two fingers. Then it should be ready for the mold. You will probably think it isn't quite done, but if it begins to hold together, it is done. Be very careful you don't overdo the spritzing. Witch hazel is quite good about not setting off your fizz, but if you give it too much Witch hazel, then it will set off your fizz. And adding more of the powdered ingredients isn't going to stop it.
Leave the bath bombs in the molds for about 5 or 10 minutes, then flip the mold over and tap it out. Give it one or two spritz of Witch Hazel again to let the outside of the bath bomb get a little crust on it. It will still be fragile, but this helps a bit in toughening it up.
Set them out in a dry place until you need to wrap them in lace or use them. You might want to let them sit over night before attempting to wrap them up or package them for sale.
When storing your bath bombs, be sure to put them in a very dry place. Humidity will help them go off. Some people will put them in an oven with very low heat to dry them out well before packaging them. This is a real good idea if you live in a very humid area.
Bath Bombs are great, big Fizzies. You drop one into the bath tub after you get in. They will fizz and give off a cloud of scent in your bath while you soak in the benefits of the baking soda. A god-send for an achy muscle day or a must for a bad attitude day. Wonderful fun! Kids love them as much as mom and dad, maybe even more!
What you will need: or purchase kit
1-1/2 Cups of Baking Soda
1/2 Cup of Citric Acid
Witch Hazel in a fine mist sprayer
Soap Crafters Fragrance
Large Bowl and Spoon
Molds
Optional:
Powdered Colorants (water based)
Lots of Patience
Now it is time to add a little powdered colorant. Just about 1/16th of a teaspoon or less will do! Really! Think in terms of crumbs here. Just a speck goes a very long way.
The colorant is added and now she is going to mix it in. You'll notice that it seems to all disappear. Don't worry about that. When your finished bath bomb hits the
water, all that color comes out in full force. :)
Adding fragrance or essential oils should be done by the drop. An amount as little as 1/4 teaspoon will probably be overpowering in the bath, so add drop by drop until you achieve the strength of scent you're looking for.
Once your scenting material is well blended, then it is time for the tricky part. You need to give the mixture a couple of sprays of witch hazel. Be careful of adding too much. Once you add too much, there is no going back. It will set off the fizz.
So, spritz about 3 or 4 times and stir and spritz and stir, being careful not to over spritz before you stir. You're going to get really tired of spritzing and stirring, but this is how it is done. If you take too long through this process, your Bath Bombs won't stick together very well. Figure you'll spend about 10 minutes spritzing and stirring.
When it is done, it'll stick to itself a bit when you pinch it between two fingers. Then it should be ready for the mold. You will probably think it isn't quite done, but if it begins to hold together, it is done. Be very careful you don't overdo the spritzing. Witch hazel is quite good about not setting off your fizz, but if you give it too much Witch hazel, then it will set off your fizz. And adding more of the powdered ingredients isn't going to stop it.
Leave the bath bombs in the molds for about 5 or 10 minutes, then flip the mold over and tap it out. Give it one or two spritz of Witch Hazel again to let the outside of the bath bomb get a little crust on it. It will still be fragile, but this helps a bit in toughening it up.
Set them out in a dry place until you need to wrap them in lace or use them. You might want to let them sit over night before attempting to wrap them up or package them for sale.
When storing your bath bombs, be sure to put them in a very dry place. Humidity will help them go off. Some people will put them in an oven with very low heat to dry them out well before packaging them. This is a real good idea if you live in a very humid area.
Soap Cut Outs for Kids
1/2 lb glycerin soap base (clear or white)
Food Coloring (any color)
9x9 Glass casserole dish
Tin foil or wax paper
Metal cookie cutters any size
Essential Oil or Fragrance (optional)
Spoon for stirring
Cover the bottom of the casserole dish with foil and fold the foil over the top.
Melt soap base in a double boiler or microwave just until melted, don't boil it.
Add a small amount of food coloring, just enough to color the soap, then add scent if desired and stir until completely mixed.
Pour the mixture in the casserole dish until its about 1/2 inch deep, then let it sit undisturbed about 1 hour. When completely hard, turn the casserole dish over and pull the soap out with the foil.
Peel the foil off the bottom and take your cookie cutters and cut the shapes out like you would cookie dough. If the soap gets stuck in the cutter, push the soap gently until it comes out.
Your shapes are ready to use right now!
Store any shapes to be used later in plastic wrap so they don't dry out.
*Aside from the potential dangers of working around the stove or hot liquids, this process is safe and can be recommended as a supervised activity for children.
Any unused soap can be remelted and used later on.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1/2 lb glycerin soap base (clear or white)
Food Coloring (any color)
9x9 Glass casserole dish
Tin foil or wax paper
Metal cookie cutters any size
Essential Oil or Fragrance (optional)
Spoon for stirring
Cover the bottom of the casserole dish with foil and fold the foil over the top.
Melt soap base in a double boiler or microwave just until melted, don't boil it.
Add a small amount of food coloring, just enough to color the soap, then add scent if desired and stir until completely mixed.
Pour the mixture in the casserole dish until its about 1/2 inch deep, then let it sit undisturbed about 1 hour. When completely hard, turn the casserole dish over and pull the soap out with the foil.
Peel the foil off the bottom and take your cookie cutters and cut the shapes out like you would cookie dough. If the soap gets stuck in the cutter, push the soap gently until it comes out.
Your shapes are ready to use right now!
Store any shapes to be used later in plastic wrap so they don't dry out.
*Aside from the potential dangers of working around the stove or hot liquids, this process is safe and can be recommended as a supervised activity for children.
Any unused soap can be remelted and used later on.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rainbow Soap
What you will need:
30 ounces of Soap Crafters Clear Glycerin Melt & Pour Soap
6 color Soap Crafters Color Tabs
Suggested colors are True Red, Lemon, Grass Green, Crystal Blue and Violet
Witch Hazel in a spritzer bottle
1/3 oz of Soap Crafters Fragrance
Small bread pan (7-1/2"long x 2-1/2" deep x 3-1/2" wide) approximately, but having straight sides.
A microwave & microwave safe bowl
A chopstick or spoon to stir
Put 5 ounces of soap in a bowl with a small sliver of a color tab. Microwave it for 30 seconds. Stir with a chop stick. Keep putting it back into the microwave until melted for about 5 seconds, being careful not to let it boil or overheat. Don't stir too vigorously because you will create foam. If color isn't dark enough, add a little more slice of a color tab.
When melted, add about 1/6th of the fragrance. Stir. Pour into the CLEAN bread pan. Remove any foam or bubbles which have formed. Put into freezer for 5 minutes or less. The top of the soap will be firm. Give the top of the soap a light spritz with Witch Hazel.
Melt your next color.
When melted and stirred evenly, set aside for a couple of minutes. A light 'skin' will form on the top of the soap. Stir in your fragrance and then pour on top of the previous layer. Put into the freezer for 5 minutes or less, until the top of the soap is a bit firm. Mist top of soap with Witch hazel.
Continue these steps until all of your colors are used. Remember to let the 'next layer's melted soap' sit until a skin forms before pouring it, otherwise the soap will be too hot and will melt the previous layers.
When the colors are all used, put the mold into the freezer for 20 minutes or so, up to an hour. The soap loaf will fall right out of the bread pan. Let it get to room temperature and slice 4 bars.
Added notes:
When we made this bar of soap, we used many fragrances, one to match each color. This method adds a scent rainbow too! :)
This recipe used just a few shreds of each color tab package to make these colors. Use less if you'd like a lighter, more tinted colored soap. Use more if you want a deeper color. It doesn't come thru well in the photograph, but this soap is still very translucent. You can still see right through it, even though it is colored.
What you will need:
30 ounces of Soap Crafters Clear Glycerin Melt & Pour Soap
6 color Soap Crafters Color Tabs
Suggested colors are True Red, Lemon, Grass Green, Crystal Blue and Violet
Witch Hazel in a spritzer bottle
1/3 oz of Soap Crafters Fragrance
Small bread pan (7-1/2"long x 2-1/2" deep x 3-1/2" wide) approximately, but having straight sides.
A microwave & microwave safe bowl
A chopstick or spoon to stir
Put 5 ounces of soap in a bowl with a small sliver of a color tab. Microwave it for 30 seconds. Stir with a chop stick. Keep putting it back into the microwave until melted for about 5 seconds, being careful not to let it boil or overheat. Don't stir too vigorously because you will create foam. If color isn't dark enough, add a little more slice of a color tab.
When melted, add about 1/6th of the fragrance. Stir. Pour into the CLEAN bread pan. Remove any foam or bubbles which have formed. Put into freezer for 5 minutes or less. The top of the soap will be firm. Give the top of the soap a light spritz with Witch Hazel.
Melt your next color.
When melted and stirred evenly, set aside for a couple of minutes. A light 'skin' will form on the top of the soap. Stir in your fragrance and then pour on top of the previous layer. Put into the freezer for 5 minutes or less, until the top of the soap is a bit firm. Mist top of soap with Witch hazel.
Continue these steps until all of your colors are used. Remember to let the 'next layer's melted soap' sit until a skin forms before pouring it, otherwise the soap will be too hot and will melt the previous layers.
When the colors are all used, put the mold into the freezer for 20 minutes or so, up to an hour. The soap loaf will fall right out of the bread pan. Let it get to room temperature and slice 4 bars.
Added notes:
When we made this bar of soap, we used many fragrances, one to match each color. This method adds a scent rainbow too! :)
This recipe used just a few shreds of each color tab package to make these colors. Use less if you'd like a lighter, more tinted colored soap. Use more if you want a deeper color. It doesn't come thru well in the photograph, but this soap is still very translucent. You can still see right through it, even though it is colored.
Goldfish in a bag
4 ounces Soap Crafters Clear Melt & Pour soap
2 Vinyl Goldfish
1 Baggie
1 Twist Tie
2 shreds of Crystal Blue Color Tab
1/4 teaspoon of any Soap Crafters Fragrance
Put the clear Melt and Pour soap chunks in a microwave safe dish with the 2 color tab shreds. Zap for 50 seconds, remove and gently swirl until all is melted. If you need to microwave it more, do so for only 10 seconds at a time.
When soap is melted, add fragrance and gently swirl in dish to mix, then pour into your baggie.
When a slight skin has formed (in about 1 minute or less) carefully poke the fish down into the soap. You might want to use a wooden skewer to straighten the fish when it is in the soap.
Allow the soap to set up. When it is hard in about an hour or less, twist tie the top.
This soap is extremely popular! It is the hottest thing in clear soaps these days.
Notes:
If you have trouble getting your fish to 'swim right' and they want to be 'dead fish floating in a bag", then try this method:
Pour 1/2 the soap into the bag. Put your fish in and adjust them, allow the soap to harden. Spray the top of the soap with Witch Hazel, rub in a bit. Then pour the 2nd half of the soap on top. This method gives you a little more control over those little fish.
4 ounces Soap Crafters Clear Melt & Pour soap
2 Vinyl Goldfish
1 Baggie
1 Twist Tie
2 shreds of Crystal Blue Color Tab
1/4 teaspoon of any Soap Crafters Fragrance
Put the clear Melt and Pour soap chunks in a microwave safe dish with the 2 color tab shreds. Zap for 50 seconds, remove and gently swirl until all is melted. If you need to microwave it more, do so for only 10 seconds at a time.
When soap is melted, add fragrance and gently swirl in dish to mix, then pour into your baggie.
When a slight skin has formed (in about 1 minute or less) carefully poke the fish down into the soap. You might want to use a wooden skewer to straighten the fish when it is in the soap.
Allow the soap to set up. When it is hard in about an hour or less, twist tie the top.
This soap is extremely popular! It is the hottest thing in clear soaps these days.
Notes:
If you have trouble getting your fish to 'swim right' and they want to be 'dead fish floating in a bag", then try this method:
Pour 1/2 the soap into the bag. Put your fish in and adjust them, allow the soap to harden. Spray the top of the soap with Witch Hazel, rub in a bit. Then pour the 2nd half of the soap on top. This method gives you a little more control over those little fish.
Jewel Soap
4 ounces of Clear Melt & Pour Soap
Shavings from previously made soap, shave so it curls
1/4 teaspoon of your favorite Soap Crafters Fragrance
A microwave & microwave safe bowl
A chopstick or spoon to stir
Celtic Oval Mold (from the Milkyway Soap Mold Line or other mold)
With a sharp knife, cut shavings from previously made and multicolored soaps. For this soap, I used rainbow soap. Spray the shavings with Witch Hazel and loosely pack them into the soap mold.
Put 4 ounces of clear Melt & Pour soap in a bowl. Microwave it for 30 seconds. Stir with a chop stick. Keep putting it back into the microwave until melted for about 5 seconds, being careful not to let it boil or overheat. Don't stir too vigorously because you will create foam.
When melted, let sit until a thin skin forms on top. You might have to jiggle it a bit to see it. Add the fragrance. Stir. Pour over the shaved soap in the soap mold. Remove any foam or bubbles which have formed.
Put mold into freezer for about 1 hour. It will pop right out.
4 ounces of Clear Melt & Pour Soap
Shavings from previously made soap, shave so it curls
1/4 teaspoon of your favorite Soap Crafters Fragrance
A microwave & microwave safe bowl
A chopstick or spoon to stir
Celtic Oval Mold (from the Milkyway Soap Mold Line or other mold)
With a sharp knife, cut shavings from previously made and multicolored soaps. For this soap, I used rainbow soap. Spray the shavings with Witch Hazel and loosely pack them into the soap mold.
Put 4 ounces of clear Melt & Pour soap in a bowl. Microwave it for 30 seconds. Stir with a chop stick. Keep putting it back into the microwave until melted for about 5 seconds, being careful not to let it boil or overheat. Don't stir too vigorously because you will create foam.
When melted, let sit until a thin skin forms on top. You might have to jiggle it a bit to see it. Add the fragrance. Stir. Pour over the shaved soap in the soap mold. Remove any foam or bubbles which have formed.
Put mold into freezer for about 1 hour. It will pop right out.
Dinosaur Soap!
One Dinosaur Finger Puppet
Mold: Basic Rectangle Item #CF4 (Milky Way Mold)
About 4 ounces of clear Melt & Pour Soap
Crystal Blue Color Tabs
A few drops of Fragrance
Melt your Melt & Pour Soap and a sliver of color tab in a microwave safe dish. Microwave for 20 seconds.
Check it and gently swirl it. Microwave for another 20 seconds or until almost melted. Swirl until all is melted and color is mixed in well.
Add a few drops of Soap Crafters Fragrance, stir it in with a chop stick. Pour into mold.
Gently push Dinosaur Finger Puppet into the liquid soap.
Let cool and harden for about 1/2 hour to an hour, then pop out of the mold.
The Dinosaur's body is hollow and doesn't fill with soap, so the soap will float well on the surface of the water while bathing.
One Dinosaur Finger Puppet
Mold: Basic Rectangle Item #CF4 (Milky Way Mold)
About 4 ounces of clear Melt & Pour Soap
Crystal Blue Color Tabs
A few drops of Fragrance
Melt your Melt & Pour Soap and a sliver of color tab in a microwave safe dish. Microwave for 20 seconds.
Check it and gently swirl it. Microwave for another 20 seconds or until almost melted. Swirl until all is melted and color is mixed in well.
Add a few drops of Soap Crafters Fragrance, stir it in with a chop stick. Pour into mold.
Gently push Dinosaur Finger Puppet into the liquid soap.
Let cool and harden for about 1/2 hour to an hour, then pop out of the mold.
The Dinosaur's body is hollow and doesn't fill with soap, so the soap will float well on the surface of the water while bathing.
Layered Soap,
1 pound glycerin soap base 1 color chip 1/2 ounce essential oil soap mold (if not a standard commercial mold, line with plastic wrap) 1/2 cup rolled oats or lavender flowers, or 1 cup rose petals 1. In a double boiler, melt the glycerin soap base.
2. Add the color chip and essential oil. Stir well, then pour three quarters of the soap mixture into the mold. Return the unpoured soap to the heat and allow the poured soap to set for 5 minutes.
3. Add the botanicals to the unpoured soap and stir well. Pour the remaining soap into the mold.
4. Leave the soap to set for 30 minutes, then place in the freezer for another 30 minutes. Let stand for 10 minutes, then pop the soap out of the mold.
Fragmented Soap
1 pound glycerin soap base 1/2 color chip, first color 1/2 ounce essential oil soap mold (if not a standard commercial mold, line with plastic wrap) 1/2 color chip, second color 1. In a double boiler, melt half of the glycerin soap base.
2. Add the first color chip and half the essential oil. Stir well, then pour into the mold.
3. Once cooled and unmolded (as described above), cut the soap into small strips.
4. Follow steps 1 and 2 with the remaining ingredients.
5. Quickly stir in the soap strips, leave to set, and unmold as above.
1 pound glycerin soap base 1 color chip 1/2 ounce essential oil soap mold (if not a standard commercial mold, line with plastic wrap) 1/2 cup rolled oats or lavender flowers, or 1 cup rose petals 1. In a double boiler, melt the glycerin soap base.
2. Add the color chip and essential oil. Stir well, then pour three quarters of the soap mixture into the mold. Return the unpoured soap to the heat and allow the poured soap to set for 5 minutes.
3. Add the botanicals to the unpoured soap and stir well. Pour the remaining soap into the mold.
4. Leave the soap to set for 30 minutes, then place in the freezer for another 30 minutes. Let stand for 10 minutes, then pop the soap out of the mold.
Fragmented Soap
1 pound glycerin soap base 1/2 color chip, first color 1/2 ounce essential oil soap mold (if not a standard commercial mold, line with plastic wrap) 1/2 color chip, second color 1. In a double boiler, melt half of the glycerin soap base.
2. Add the first color chip and half the essential oil. Stir well, then pour into the mold.
3. Once cooled and unmolded (as described above), cut the soap into small strips.
4. Follow steps 1 and 2 with the remaining ingredients.
5. Quickly stir in the soap strips, leave to set, and unmold as above.
Glycerin soap recipe
Making my own soap several years ago, gathering all the supplies from every outlet I could find, I gave it a go and decided that store bought soap was not very bad. At the least, it was a whole lot less work than this. Then all these clear soaps with little frogs and bunnies and every imaginable item right in the middle of the bars started showing up at the stores. All the labels read glycerin based. If you have ever used a glycerin-based soap, you know how moisturizing it is. If not, once you try it, you will not want to use any other type of soap again. I had never tried making glycerin soap but I knew I had heard something about melt and pour glycerin blocks. Could soap making really be as easy as melt and pour? Yes!
If you have always wanted to try soap making, but had no idea where to start, this is it.
First, you will need to gather a few supplies. Some will need to be purchased. These items should be available at any medium to large craft store or outlet. Others you can also buy or improvise with items right from your kitchen. Many people that I have discussed this soap with and recipes call for a double boiler to melt the blocks. Going one step further towards ease, we will melt the glycerin blocks right in the microwave. The only downfall to this is once you use a container for this purpose, do not use it for anything related to food after. While the glycerin blocks are non-toxic, the soap when melted seems to adhere to the plastic and you will never be able to fully rid the containers of the soaps natural scent.
Supplies Needed
Clear Glycerin Melt and Pour Blocks (White and pre-colored are available)
Microwave safe sturdy plastic container (Square shape recommended so you have a corner for pouring)
Molds
Fragrance (Cosmetic grade)
Colorant
Wooden spoon for stirring and mixing (Wood works best but any long handled utensil can be used)
Potholders (Preferably, the mitts as soap will be extremely hot when first removed from the microwave)
For fun, you will want some small items to ‘sink’ into the middle of your soap. One-piece baby toys work well, dried flowers, small cars, almost anything you can think of. While smaller items that can be totally covered are perfect for this, a medium size works well too. For example, baby’s rubber ducks bathtub toy, submerged just on the bottom half in a round bar appears to be ‘swimming’ in the soap.
Start with one block of melt and pour. One block equals ¼ lb. Place in your microwave safe sturdy plastic container, and using a setting of medium to high, melt for approximately 45 seconds. Each microwave is different, so it is important that you closely watch the melt and pour as you do this step. Your goal is to melt the block, DO NOT BOIL. This is very important. While it will not render the soap unusable, it seems to lose the soaps natural lathering abilities if boiled. Also making it hot enough to melt the molds themselves, especially if you are using purchased molds of which many are plastic.
Remove melt and pour from the microwave with mitts. Add fragrance first. Only a cosmetic grade fragrance should be used. If soap is going to be used on a young child, no scent need even be added, as the melt and pour has a natural fresh scent of its own.
If coloring is being added, add now. There are many different products for coloring available on the market. Some are cream based, which personally, I find work best. Powder based coloring is another option. Of these, there are many, many variations. There is even coloring with mica that makes the soap glitter. Again though, this is an optional step, and if you are going to add items to the soap, clear really is best.
Next, it is time to pour the mixture into your molds. Purchased molds are fine, but many items right from your own kitchen will work equally well. Small Tupperware or Rubbermaid containers work good for single bars of soap. After pouring, submerge items of your choosing into soap. Spoon should be used so as not to burn yourself. Tall cardboard potato chip cans will make a long tube of soap. Once set, tear away the tube and slice the soap into desired thickness. Larger Tupperware or Rubbermaid containers can be filled one layer at a time, resulting in a block of soap that when sliced gives a rainbow effect. Finally, a bit of advice. Experiment, experiment, experiment! The possibilities with this fun process are limited only to your imagination.
Making my own soap several years ago, gathering all the supplies from every outlet I could find, I gave it a go and decided that store bought soap was not very bad. At the least, it was a whole lot less work than this. Then all these clear soaps with little frogs and bunnies and every imaginable item right in the middle of the bars started showing up at the stores. All the labels read glycerin based. If you have ever used a glycerin-based soap, you know how moisturizing it is. If not, once you try it, you will not want to use any other type of soap again. I had never tried making glycerin soap but I knew I had heard something about melt and pour glycerin blocks. Could soap making really be as easy as melt and pour? Yes!
If you have always wanted to try soap making, but had no idea where to start, this is it.
First, you will need to gather a few supplies. Some will need to be purchased. These items should be available at any medium to large craft store or outlet. Others you can also buy or improvise with items right from your kitchen. Many people that I have discussed this soap with and recipes call for a double boiler to melt the blocks. Going one step further towards ease, we will melt the glycerin blocks right in the microwave. The only downfall to this is once you use a container for this purpose, do not use it for anything related to food after. While the glycerin blocks are non-toxic, the soap when melted seems to adhere to the plastic and you will never be able to fully rid the containers of the soaps natural scent.
Supplies Needed
Clear Glycerin Melt and Pour Blocks (White and pre-colored are available)
Microwave safe sturdy plastic container (Square shape recommended so you have a corner for pouring)
Molds
Fragrance (Cosmetic grade)
Colorant
Wooden spoon for stirring and mixing (Wood works best but any long handled utensil can be used)
Potholders (Preferably, the mitts as soap will be extremely hot when first removed from the microwave)
For fun, you will want some small items to ‘sink’ into the middle of your soap. One-piece baby toys work well, dried flowers, small cars, almost anything you can think of. While smaller items that can be totally covered are perfect for this, a medium size works well too. For example, baby’s rubber ducks bathtub toy, submerged just on the bottom half in a round bar appears to be ‘swimming’ in the soap.
Start with one block of melt and pour. One block equals ¼ lb. Place in your microwave safe sturdy plastic container, and using a setting of medium to high, melt for approximately 45 seconds. Each microwave is different, so it is important that you closely watch the melt and pour as you do this step. Your goal is to melt the block, DO NOT BOIL. This is very important. While it will not render the soap unusable, it seems to lose the soaps natural lathering abilities if boiled. Also making it hot enough to melt the molds themselves, especially if you are using purchased molds of which many are plastic.
Remove melt and pour from the microwave with mitts. Add fragrance first. Only a cosmetic grade fragrance should be used. If soap is going to be used on a young child, no scent need even be added, as the melt and pour has a natural fresh scent of its own.
If coloring is being added, add now. There are many different products for coloring available on the market. Some are cream based, which personally, I find work best. Powder based coloring is another option. Of these, there are many, many variations. There is even coloring with mica that makes the soap glitter. Again though, this is an optional step, and if you are going to add items to the soap, clear really is best.
Next, it is time to pour the mixture into your molds. Purchased molds are fine, but many items right from your own kitchen will work equally well. Small Tupperware or Rubbermaid containers work good for single bars of soap. After pouring, submerge items of your choosing into soap. Spoon should be used so as not to burn yourself. Tall cardboard potato chip cans will make a long tube of soap. Once set, tear away the tube and slice the soap into desired thickness. Larger Tupperware or Rubbermaid containers can be filled one layer at a time, resulting in a block of soap that when sliced gives a rainbow effect. Finally, a bit of advice. Experiment, experiment, experiment! The possibilities with this fun process are limited only to your imagination.
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