How to Rebatch Soap
Author: Sinclair A. Sheers Published on: August 10, 2001
I wrote about the four different ways to make soap (http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/7683... One of four ways to make soap is melt and pour (http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/7683... Another way is cold process (http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/7683... Today's article is how to rebatch soap. Rebatching is also called hand crafting or hand milling.
Ingredients
soap that has recently been made using the cold process method or stored wrapped in plastic since it was made. If you make your own cold process soap in order to rebatch it, don't add any additives like color or scent after you reach trace. Just pour it into a simple mold.
one cup of whole milk (you can use goats milk) per pound of soap, less if the soap contains olive oil
scent, color, and other optional additives
Instructions
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees. Chop the soap into little pieces. Put the pieces into a pot. Add the milk. Stir. Put the top on the pot. Put the pot into the oven. Stir every fifteen minutes or so.
When everything has turned to liquid, after about an hour or two, Remove the pot from the oven. Add scent, color, and whatever other additives you want. It's better to stir your additives together in a little bit of oil in a separate container and then stir them into the pot of soap. When the additives are all mixed in to the soap, put the soap into molds. Let the soap cool and harden in the molds.
When it is ready, remove it from the molds. Set it aside for about four weeks to cure so all the water evaporates out and you get a nice, hard bar. Now you can do the happy soap dance!
Why Rebatch?
You can rebatch if you don't want to work with lye. You can buy soap noodles from http://www.soapcrafters.com that is cold process soap ready to be rebatched.
You can rebatch if you want to add milk or goats milk to cold process soap to make it richer and creamier.
You can rebatch if you don't like how your cold process soap came out. Rebatching is a way to salvage soap that you would otherwise throw away.
Saturday, 14 September 2002
How to Make Laundry Soap from Rendered Tallow
Author: Sinclair A. Sheers Published on: September 5, 2001
In my last article, I described how to render tallow so you can use it to make soap. This recipe calls for four pounds, 64 ounces, of rendered tallow. If you want to use more or less tallow, go to http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc.html and enter the correct amount into the lye calculator.
I have two different recipes. One recipe uses nothing but tallow for the oil. The other recipe adds palm oil. The palm oil makes the soap harder and hastens trace. I usually add half as much palm oil as tallow. If you have a different amount of tallow, or want to use a different amount of palm oil, please run it through the lye calculator.
Here are my two recipes.
Pure Tallow Soap
64 oz tallow
24 fluid oz distilled water
8.5 oz lye
Tallow and Palm Oil Soap
32 oz palm oil
64 oz tallow
36 fluid oz distilled water
12.8 oz lye
Equipment for both recipes
large stainless steel pot
two heavy plastic pitchers
safety goggles
neoprene gloves
heavy apron
stick blender
soap molds
saran wrap
For both recipes, heat the tallow (and palm oil) in the stainless steel pot on the stove until liquid. Remove from heat. Measure the water into one pitcher. Don your goggles, neoprene gloves, and apron. Measure the lye into another pitcher. Pour the lye into the water and stir until the liquid is clear. Pour this mixture into the melted oil and mix it with the stick blender until it reaches trace. If you are not sure what reaching trace looks like, review my article on how to make cold process soap at http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/7683... When your soap reaches trace, pour it into molds, cover it with saran wrap, and leave it. After 24 hours, remove it from the molds and let the bars sit in a well-ventilated area. Now you can do the happy soap dance !!!
Since this is going to be laundry soap, we have made it using the cold process method instead of the hot process method. Each bar of soap contains water, but it's going to be mixed with more water to make laundry soap. You can always let these bars cure for 6-8 weeks until the water evaporates out. Then you can use them as soap if you want instead of turning them into laundry soap.
Now you have made bars of soap, here's how to make laundry soap from them.
Equipment
4 oz soap, preferably made from tallow
2 gallons water
a large pot
1/2 cup Borax (20 mule team)
1 or 2 tsp fragrance oil
a large storage container with a wide mouth
First, chop the soap into small pieces. Put the pieces into the water in the pot on the stove. Boil and stir the mixture until the soap has dissolved, about 20 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat. Stir in the Borax. Add the fragrance oil if you like. I use a minty scent like Candy Cane from http://www.soapcrafters.com/. Pour the mixture into the storage container. When the mixture cools, it will solidify into a gel. Use about 1/2 cup of this gel with every load of wash.
Author: Sinclair A. Sheers Published on: September 5, 2001
In my last article, I described how to render tallow so you can use it to make soap. This recipe calls for four pounds, 64 ounces, of rendered tallow. If you want to use more or less tallow, go to http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc.html and enter the correct amount into the lye calculator.
I have two different recipes. One recipe uses nothing but tallow for the oil. The other recipe adds palm oil. The palm oil makes the soap harder and hastens trace. I usually add half as much palm oil as tallow. If you have a different amount of tallow, or want to use a different amount of palm oil, please run it through the lye calculator.
Here are my two recipes.
Pure Tallow Soap
64 oz tallow
24 fluid oz distilled water
8.5 oz lye
Tallow and Palm Oil Soap
32 oz palm oil
64 oz tallow
36 fluid oz distilled water
12.8 oz lye
Equipment for both recipes
large stainless steel pot
two heavy plastic pitchers
safety goggles
neoprene gloves
heavy apron
stick blender
soap molds
saran wrap
For both recipes, heat the tallow (and palm oil) in the stainless steel pot on the stove until liquid. Remove from heat. Measure the water into one pitcher. Don your goggles, neoprene gloves, and apron. Measure the lye into another pitcher. Pour the lye into the water and stir until the liquid is clear. Pour this mixture into the melted oil and mix it with the stick blender until it reaches trace. If you are not sure what reaching trace looks like, review my article on how to make cold process soap at http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/7683... When your soap reaches trace, pour it into molds, cover it with saran wrap, and leave it. After 24 hours, remove it from the molds and let the bars sit in a well-ventilated area. Now you can do the happy soap dance !!!
Since this is going to be laundry soap, we have made it using the cold process method instead of the hot process method. Each bar of soap contains water, but it's going to be mixed with more water to make laundry soap. You can always let these bars cure for 6-8 weeks until the water evaporates out. Then you can use them as soap if you want instead of turning them into laundry soap.
Now you have made bars of soap, here's how to make laundry soap from them.
Equipment
4 oz soap, preferably made from tallow
2 gallons water
a large pot
1/2 cup Borax (20 mule team)
1 or 2 tsp fragrance oil
a large storage container with a wide mouth
First, chop the soap into small pieces. Put the pieces into the water in the pot on the stove. Boil and stir the mixture until the soap has dissolved, about 20 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat. Stir in the Borax. Add the fragrance oil if you like. I use a minty scent like Candy Cane from http://www.soapcrafters.com/. Pour the mixture into the storage container. When the mixture cools, it will solidify into a gel. Use about 1/2 cup of this gel with every load of wash.
Troubleshooting
The cooking soap has oil on top
Most likely the soap was cooked on too high of a power setting. Stir the oil back in and continue cooking
The soap looks grainy
This is perfectly normal, keep cooking
The soap tingles when I taste it
The soap hasn't cooked enough, keep cooking
The soap has been cooking for a few minutes and is starting to look dry
If the soap needs to be cooked some more, add water a tablespoon at a time
The soap has cooked for 15 minutes and looks like mashed potatoes, but there is no lye tingle.
The soap has cooked for too long. Quickly add your other ingredients and glop it into the mold
I keep stirring, but the soap keeps climbing.
You have reached the champagne bubbles stage. Continue to stir until the soap stops climbing. Test for pH. Cook the soap longer if the pH isn't right.
My soap didn't go through the champagne bubbles stage
That's ok, not all soaps do. Continue cooking until the soap looks like heated Vasaline
The cooking soap has oil on top
Most likely the soap was cooked on too high of a power setting. Stir the oil back in and continue cooking
The soap looks grainy
This is perfectly normal, keep cooking
The soap tingles when I taste it
The soap hasn't cooked enough, keep cooking
The soap has been cooking for a few minutes and is starting to look dry
If the soap needs to be cooked some more, add water a tablespoon at a time
The soap has cooked for 15 minutes and looks like mashed potatoes, but there is no lye tingle.
The soap has cooked for too long. Quickly add your other ingredients and glop it into the mold
I keep stirring, but the soap keeps climbing.
You have reached the champagne bubbles stage. Continue to stir until the soap stops climbing. Test for pH. Cook the soap longer if the pH isn't right.
My soap didn't go through the champagne bubbles stage
That's ok, not all soaps do. Continue cooking until the soap looks like heated Vasaline
30-Minute Microwave Hot Process Soap
Hi, my name is Karen Stark and I am the discoverer of Microwave Hot Process Soap Making. For those of you who are unfamiliar with soap making in general there are two different ways to make soap. The first method is called cold process. Lye is added to a mixture of fats, stirred until it is thick, and poured into a mold to cure for several weeks. Hot process involves mixing the lye with the fats, and stirring as well. The soap is then heated to speed the reaction of the lye with the fats to make soap. There are several different ways of "cooking" soap. You can bake it in the oven, cook it on top of the stove, cook it in a double boiler, or use a crock pot. Typically a batch of hot processed soap takes an hour or two to complete, and the soap is ready to use as soon as it is cooled. Using a microwave is conciderably faster. A five pound batch is done in about 15 minutes. A smaller batch can cook in as little as 5 minutes. There is little difference in the finished product between hot and cold process soap.
There are several advantages to making hot processed soap and they are:
1. No curing time (or very little) what ever you make is ready to use, or sell the next day. For those soapmakers who have very little curing space this method is very handy.
2. There is no lye present in the finished soap, so there is little worry about colors and scents mutating. You can also use just about anything as a mold, even aluminum!!!
3. Because the scents go in at the end of the cook, and are not effected by the lye you can use less scent and still get the same effect. You also don't have to worry about the scent seizing a batch like with cold process
There is only one disadvantage of hot process soap, and that is that the soap is very gloppy when it is done cooking. This makes it somewhat difficult, although not impossible, to use very intricate molds. It is also difficult to get the top perfectly smooth, and the bars usually require some trimming which is easily done with a cheese plainer, or a potato peeler.
Safety (important please read)
Instructions
Pictures
Scent and Color
Trouble-shooting
Hi, my name is Karen Stark and I am the discoverer of Microwave Hot Process Soap Making. For those of you who are unfamiliar with soap making in general there are two different ways to make soap. The first method is called cold process. Lye is added to a mixture of fats, stirred until it is thick, and poured into a mold to cure for several weeks. Hot process involves mixing the lye with the fats, and stirring as well. The soap is then heated to speed the reaction of the lye with the fats to make soap. There are several different ways of "cooking" soap. You can bake it in the oven, cook it on top of the stove, cook it in a double boiler, or use a crock pot. Typically a batch of hot processed soap takes an hour or two to complete, and the soap is ready to use as soon as it is cooled. Using a microwave is conciderably faster. A five pound batch is done in about 15 minutes. A smaller batch can cook in as little as 5 minutes. There is little difference in the finished product between hot and cold process soap.
There are several advantages to making hot processed soap and they are:
1. No curing time (or very little) what ever you make is ready to use, or sell the next day. For those soapmakers who have very little curing space this method is very handy.
2. There is no lye present in the finished soap, so there is little worry about colors and scents mutating. You can also use just about anything as a mold, even aluminum!!!
3. Because the scents go in at the end of the cook, and are not effected by the lye you can use less scent and still get the same effect. You also don't have to worry about the scent seizing a batch like with cold process
There is only one disadvantage of hot process soap, and that is that the soap is very gloppy when it is done cooking. This makes it somewhat difficult, although not impossible, to use very intricate molds. It is also difficult to get the top perfectly smooth, and the bars usually require some trimming which is easily done with a cheese plainer, or a potato peeler.
Safety (important please read)
Instructions
Pictures
Scent and Color
Trouble-shooting
There are four ways to make hot process soap
in the oven
in a crock pot
in a double boiler
in the microwave
To make hot process soap in the oven, first preheat the oven to 200 degrees and remove all but the lowest rack. Start making soap using the cold process method. After you reach trace, do not add anything like scent or color. Instead, put a lid on the pot and put it into the oven. Stir every fifteen minutes or so. After it has cooked for about an hour, it is done. Add the scent, color, and other goodies (mix them together in a little bit of oil before adding them to the pot), stir, and pour into molds.
To make hot process soap in the crockpot, after reaching trace, instead of cooking your soap in the oven, cook your soap in a crockpot set on low. Cook it for about an hour stirring every fifteen minutes or so. Then, just as in the previous paragraph, add your scent, color and other goodies and pour it into molds.
Make hot process in the double boiler the same way. Put your pot of soap inside a larger pot of boiling water. Cook it for about an hour stirring every fifteen minutes or so. When it is done, add your additives and pour it into molds.
Making hot process soap in the microwave is a little different. First of all, don't use a metal pot. Use something that is microwave- and lye-safe. Cook it on low for about 30 minutes stirring every few minutes. When it is done, add your goodies and pour it into molds.
When the soap is cool, it is ready to remove from the molds and use. Both the saponification process (the chemical reaction where the oils and lye turn into soap) and the curing process (where the water evaporates out of the soap) are complete. You can use hot process soap right away. It's time to do the happy soap dance !!!
A disadvantage of the hot process method is that it makes the soap thick, like applesauce, so it doesn't flow into molds as smoothly as cold process soap. Hot process is not the method to use if you have intricate, detailed molds. The advantage to making hot process soap is that you can use it right away; you don't have to wait for it to cure.
in the oven
in a crock pot
in a double boiler
in the microwave
To make hot process soap in the oven, first preheat the oven to 200 degrees and remove all but the lowest rack. Start making soap using the cold process method. After you reach trace, do not add anything like scent or color. Instead, put a lid on the pot and put it into the oven. Stir every fifteen minutes or so. After it has cooked for about an hour, it is done. Add the scent, color, and other goodies (mix them together in a little bit of oil before adding them to the pot), stir, and pour into molds.
To make hot process soap in the crockpot, after reaching trace, instead of cooking your soap in the oven, cook your soap in a crockpot set on low. Cook it for about an hour stirring every fifteen minutes or so. Then, just as in the previous paragraph, add your scent, color and other goodies and pour it into molds.
Make hot process in the double boiler the same way. Put your pot of soap inside a larger pot of boiling water. Cook it for about an hour stirring every fifteen minutes or so. When it is done, add your additives and pour it into molds.
Making hot process soap in the microwave is a little different. First of all, don't use a metal pot. Use something that is microwave- and lye-safe. Cook it on low for about 30 minutes stirring every few minutes. When it is done, add your goodies and pour it into molds.
When the soap is cool, it is ready to remove from the molds and use. Both the saponification process (the chemical reaction where the oils and lye turn into soap) and the curing process (where the water evaporates out of the soap) are complete. You can use hot process soap right away. It's time to do the happy soap dance !!!
A disadvantage of the hot process method is that it makes the soap thick, like applesauce, so it doesn't flow into molds as smoothly as cold process soap. Hot process is not the method to use if you have intricate, detailed molds. The advantage to making hot process soap is that you can use it right away; you don't have to wait for it to cure.
How to Make a Shampoo Bar
Author: Sinclair A. Sheers Published on: August 31, 2001
This soap can be used as a shampoo. The castor oil and coconut oil make a nice lather. The jojoba oil and shea butter provide rich conditioning. The olive oil makes it mild. The palm oil hardens the bar and quickens trace. The cocoa butter and beeswax both help to harden the bar, too. The silk and goats milk make it luxurious.
Ingredients
Oils
1 oz castor oil
1 oz cocoa butter
4 oz coconut oil
1 oz jojoba oil
6 oz olive oil
5 oz palm oil
1 oz shea butter
1 oz beeswax
Lye Mixture
at least 8 fl oz distilled water
2.6 oz lye
one square inch silk fabric (any color) or 1 T hydrolyzed silk amino acids (available from http://www.from-nature-with-love.com )
Additives
3 T powdered goats milk
your preferred fragrance oil or essential oil (I use 1.5 tsp. Blue Lilac fragrance oil from http://www.soapcrafters.com)
Run the recipe through a lye calculator like the one at http://www.the-sage.com/services/calcula... before proceeding.
These directions are for hot process soap. You can make this recipe using the cold process method by following the directions at http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/7683...
Remove all but the bottom rack of the oven. Preheat it to 200 degrees. Weigh all the oils. Put them in a big stainless steel pot on the stove. Remove a few tablespoons of the oils from the pot. Save them in a measuring cup for later. Heat and stir the oils in the pot until they turn to liquid. Turn off the stove.
Measure the water for the lye mixture. Go outside, don gloves, goggles, and apron. Measure the lye. Mix the lye and silk into the water. Stir until the lye and silk are completely dissolved. Pour the lye mixture into the oil pot. Stir with a stick blender. When it reaches trace, put the top on the pot. Put the pot into the oven. Cook it for an hour stirring every 15 minutes. During this time, grease the molds with a little oil.
When the soap is cooked, remove the pot from the oven. Mix the additives into the few tablespoons of oil saved earlier. Make a slurry of it. Pour the slurry into the big pot of soap. Mix it well. Pour it into molds. Since this is Hot Process, the soap is ready to use when it cools and hardens. It takes a few days to truly harden. If you have trouble getting the soap out of the molds, put your molds into the freezer for a few hours. After you remove the soap from the molds, you can do the happy soap dance!
When you use this shampoo bar, I suggest you rinse your hair with a combination of 1/3 white vinegar and 2/3 water after shampooing.
Author: Sinclair A. Sheers Published on: August 31, 2001
This soap can be used as a shampoo. The castor oil and coconut oil make a nice lather. The jojoba oil and shea butter provide rich conditioning. The olive oil makes it mild. The palm oil hardens the bar and quickens trace. The cocoa butter and beeswax both help to harden the bar, too. The silk and goats milk make it luxurious.
Ingredients
Oils
1 oz castor oil
1 oz cocoa butter
4 oz coconut oil
1 oz jojoba oil
6 oz olive oil
5 oz palm oil
1 oz shea butter
1 oz beeswax
Lye Mixture
at least 8 fl oz distilled water
2.6 oz lye
one square inch silk fabric (any color) or 1 T hydrolyzed silk amino acids (available from http://www.from-nature-with-love.com )
Additives
3 T powdered goats milk
your preferred fragrance oil or essential oil (I use 1.5 tsp. Blue Lilac fragrance oil from http://www.soapcrafters.com)
Run the recipe through a lye calculator like the one at http://www.the-sage.com/services/calcula... before proceeding.
These directions are for hot process soap. You can make this recipe using the cold process method by following the directions at http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/7683...
Remove all but the bottom rack of the oven. Preheat it to 200 degrees. Weigh all the oils. Put them in a big stainless steel pot on the stove. Remove a few tablespoons of the oils from the pot. Save them in a measuring cup for later. Heat and stir the oils in the pot until they turn to liquid. Turn off the stove.
Measure the water for the lye mixture. Go outside, don gloves, goggles, and apron. Measure the lye. Mix the lye and silk into the water. Stir until the lye and silk are completely dissolved. Pour the lye mixture into the oil pot. Stir with a stick blender. When it reaches trace, put the top on the pot. Put the pot into the oven. Cook it for an hour stirring every 15 minutes. During this time, grease the molds with a little oil.
When the soap is cooked, remove the pot from the oven. Mix the additives into the few tablespoons of oil saved earlier. Make a slurry of it. Pour the slurry into the big pot of soap. Mix it well. Pour it into molds. Since this is Hot Process, the soap is ready to use when it cools and hardens. It takes a few days to truly harden. If you have trouble getting the soap out of the molds, put your molds into the freezer for a few hours. After you remove the soap from the molds, you can do the happy soap dance!
When you use this shampoo bar, I suggest you rinse your hair with a combination of 1/3 white vinegar and 2/3 water after shampooing.
How to Render Tallow
Author: Sinclair A. Sheers Published on: September 4, 2001
I make laundry soap from soap made from tallow. Tallow is beef fat. Before making tallow soap, you need to render, or purify the tallow.
Equipment
beef fat, preferably suet
a big pot
about one gallon of water per pound of fat
3 T salt
a fine mesh strainer, like an old pair of pantyhose
3 T baking soda
To render tallow, first take beef fat and cut off anything that does not look like fat. If you can, get suet. Suet is beef fat from around the kidneys. It makes a harder bar than regular beef fat. Chop the fat into little pieces or grind it. Put the fat into a pot and cover it with water. Add a few tablespoons of salt. Boil it for 30 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove it from the heat and let it cool. Strain it (an old pair of pantyhose makes a great strainer). Cover it and refrigerate it until the top layer hardens, probably overnight. This solid top layer is the tallow. Take it, discard the rest, and render it again.
The second time you render your tallow, take the solid layer, put it into the pot, add enough water to cover it, and add a few tablespoons of baking soda, not salt this time. Boil it for 30 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove it from the heat. let cool. Strain. Put it into the fridge. When the top layer solidifies, discard everything else. Now you're ready to use this rendered tallow to make soap. Store the tallow in the fridge or freezer until you're ready to use it.
If you don't feel like doing all this work, you can buy tallow, already rendered and ready to use in soap, from http://starrvillesoapworks.com/.
Author: Sinclair A. Sheers Published on: September 4, 2001
I make laundry soap from soap made from tallow. Tallow is beef fat. Before making tallow soap, you need to render, or purify the tallow.
Equipment
beef fat, preferably suet
a big pot
about one gallon of water per pound of fat
3 T salt
a fine mesh strainer, like an old pair of pantyhose
3 T baking soda
To render tallow, first take beef fat and cut off anything that does not look like fat. If you can, get suet. Suet is beef fat from around the kidneys. It makes a harder bar than regular beef fat. Chop the fat into little pieces or grind it. Put the fat into a pot and cover it with water. Add a few tablespoons of salt. Boil it for 30 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove it from the heat and let it cool. Strain it (an old pair of pantyhose makes a great strainer). Cover it and refrigerate it until the top layer hardens, probably overnight. This solid top layer is the tallow. Take it, discard the rest, and render it again.
The second time you render your tallow, take the solid layer, put it into the pot, add enough water to cover it, and add a few tablespoons of baking soda, not salt this time. Boil it for 30 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove it from the heat. let cool. Strain. Put it into the fridge. When the top layer solidifies, discard everything else. Now you're ready to use this rendered tallow to make soap. Store the tallow in the fridge or freezer until you're ready to use it.
If you don't feel like doing all this work, you can buy tallow, already rendered and ready to use in soap, from http://starrvillesoapworks.com/.
Crock Pot Hot Process Soapmaking
Here is an easy process for CPHP (Crock Pot Hot Process). Any recipe for CP can be used for CPHP. I think both of my crock pots are 6-7 quarts.
Take out your crock pot & turn on to "HIGH". Mix up your soap as you normally do ... same proportions, and get it to a MEDIUM trace in your soap pot. (I use a stick blender)
Empty the soap pot into your crock pot. Put the crock on "LOW" and cover with the glass lid.
You can peek through the lid and this is what you will observe. The edges will start turning into the "Vaseline stage".
When all the edges look this way and the middle is still thicker than the rest, it is ok to stir.
In the final stage, all the soap turns into the "Vaseline" stage. Depending on the batch, it finally comes to the consistency of mashed potatoes or thick applesauce. Use soap approved colors, gels, powders or herbs. Check for the "lye" sting!
Leave the lid on. Turn off crock pot. Let it cool down a bit. Add essential oil(s) or fragrance oils & color . Stir well with a stainless steel wire whisk. The ones with a long handle are easier so you don't burn your fingers. Ask me how I know LOL!
Put it in the appropriate molds (NOT Life of the Party molds). If you want smoother soap, insulate with towels or blankets. I use an old quilt. This makes it go back tot he gel stage and the top of the soap will be smoother like CP.
Let it insulate overnight. Uncover & let cool till just warm. Then slice. It's pretty much ready to use as soon as it is firm. If you want your soap to last longer, "cure" for one week. The whole "cooking" process takes about an hour. Most of my batches are not made with majority of olive oil, so my batches have never cooked longer than an hour. Milks and honey elevate the temperature of your soap.
Courtesy Irena Marchu
Here is an easy process for CPHP (Crock Pot Hot Process). Any recipe for CP can be used for CPHP. I think both of my crock pots are 6-7 quarts.
Take out your crock pot & turn on to "HIGH". Mix up your soap as you normally do ... same proportions, and get it to a MEDIUM trace in your soap pot. (I use a stick blender)
Empty the soap pot into your crock pot. Put the crock on "LOW" and cover with the glass lid.
You can peek through the lid and this is what you will observe. The edges will start turning into the "Vaseline stage".
When all the edges look this way and the middle is still thicker than the rest, it is ok to stir.
In the final stage, all the soap turns into the "Vaseline" stage. Depending on the batch, it finally comes to the consistency of mashed potatoes or thick applesauce. Use soap approved colors, gels, powders or herbs. Check for the "lye" sting!
Leave the lid on. Turn off crock pot. Let it cool down a bit. Add essential oil(s) or fragrance oils & color . Stir well with a stainless steel wire whisk. The ones with a long handle are easier so you don't burn your fingers. Ask me how I know LOL!
Put it in the appropriate molds (NOT Life of the Party molds). If you want smoother soap, insulate with towels or blankets. I use an old quilt. This makes it go back tot he gel stage and the top of the soap will be smoother like CP.
Let it insulate overnight. Uncover & let cool till just warm. Then slice. It's pretty much ready to use as soon as it is firm. If you want your soap to last longer, "cure" for one week. The whole "cooking" process takes about an hour. Most of my batches are not made with majority of olive oil, so my batches have never cooked longer than an hour. Milks and honey elevate the temperature of your soap.
Courtesy Irena Marchu
Friday, 23 August 2002
Chef's Salty Chocolate Balls
2 tablespoons of cinnamon,
and 2 or 3 egg whites,
a half a stick of butter, melted.
Stick it all in a bowl baby,
stir it with a wooden spoon,
mix in a cup of flour.
You''l be in heaven soon
Say everybody have you seen my balls they're big and salty and brown.
If you ever need a quick pick me up, just stick my balls in your mouth.
Oh! Suck on my chocolate salty balls, put 'em in your mouth and suck 'em.
Suck on my chocolate salty balls, they're packed vitamins,
and good for you, so suck on balls.
pour in a cup of unsweetened chocolate,
and a half a cup of brandy
then throw in a bag or two of sugar,
and just a pinch of vanilla,
grease up the cookie sheet.
Cause I hate when my balls stick!
then preheat the oven to 350, and give that spoon a lick!
Say everybody have you seen my balls they're big and salty and brown.
If you ever need a quick pick me up, just stick my balls in your mouth.
Oh! Suck on my chocolate salty balls, put 'em in your mouth and suck 'em.
Suck on my chocolate salty balls, they're packed full of goodness,
and high in fiber, so suck on balls.
(Chef Speaking:) sniff, sniff, hey, wait a minute, what's that smell.
It smells like something's burning.
Well, that don't bother me none, as long as I get my rent paid on Friday.
Baby, you better get back in the kitchen, cause I got a sneakn' suspition.
Oh man baby, baby, you just burnt my balls.
My balls are on fire, come on, my balls are burning, gimme some water pour some water on 'em, o goodness, blow
on them, do something
Say everybody have you seen my balls they're big and salty and brown. (they're on fire baby)
If you ever need a quick pick me up, just stick my balls in your mouth.
Oh! Suck on my chocolate salty balls, put 'em in your mouth and suck 'em. (Put 'em out, blow on 'em.)
suck on my balls baby,
suck on my balls baby, suck on my red hot salty chocolate balls.
Woo, woo, suck on my balls (blow, blow, blow)
2 tablespoons of cinnamon,
and 2 or 3 egg whites,
a half a stick of butter, melted.
Stick it all in a bowl baby,
stir it with a wooden spoon,
mix in a cup of flour.
You''l be in heaven soon
Say everybody have you seen my balls they're big and salty and brown.
If you ever need a quick pick me up, just stick my balls in your mouth.
Oh! Suck on my chocolate salty balls, put 'em in your mouth and suck 'em.
Suck on my chocolate salty balls, they're packed vitamins,
and good for you, so suck on balls.
pour in a cup of unsweetened chocolate,
and a half a cup of brandy
then throw in a bag or two of sugar,
and just a pinch of vanilla,
grease up the cookie sheet.
Cause I hate when my balls stick!
then preheat the oven to 350, and give that spoon a lick!
Say everybody have you seen my balls they're big and salty and brown.
If you ever need a quick pick me up, just stick my balls in your mouth.
Oh! Suck on my chocolate salty balls, put 'em in your mouth and suck 'em.
Suck on my chocolate salty balls, they're packed full of goodness,
and high in fiber, so suck on balls.
(Chef Speaking:) sniff, sniff, hey, wait a minute, what's that smell.
It smells like something's burning.
Well, that don't bother me none, as long as I get my rent paid on Friday.
Baby, you better get back in the kitchen, cause I got a sneakn' suspition.
Oh man baby, baby, you just burnt my balls.
My balls are on fire, come on, my balls are burning, gimme some water pour some water on 'em, o goodness, blow
on them, do something
Say everybody have you seen my balls they're big and salty and brown. (they're on fire baby)
If you ever need a quick pick me up, just stick my balls in your mouth.
Oh! Suck on my chocolate salty balls, put 'em in your mouth and suck 'em. (Put 'em out, blow on 'em.)
suck on my balls baby,
suck on my balls baby, suck on my red hot salty chocolate balls.
Woo, woo, suck on my balls (blow, blow, blow)
Sunday, 11 August 2002
Recipe for Mini Tube Soap More
1. Melt 1 pound of soap in a double boiler.
2. Do not fragrance the soap. Color it with your desired cosmetic colorant.
3. Prepare the tube mold by making sure the bottom is snapped on tightly. I find it easiest to snap the middle on and work my way out.
4. Pour the soap into the mold.
5. Let the soap harden.
6. Place the mold in the freezer for 30 minutes.
7. Take the mold out of the freezer and run under warm water for a minute or so.
8. Take the bottom of the mold off and push the glycerin soap tube out of the mold with the eraser end of a pencil.
1. Melt 1 pound of soap in a double boiler.
2. Do not fragrance the soap. Color it with your desired cosmetic colorant.
3. Prepare the tube mold by making sure the bottom is snapped on tightly. I find it easiest to snap the middle on and work my way out.
4. Pour the soap into the mold.
5. Let the soap harden.
6. Place the mold in the freezer for 30 minutes.
7. Take the mold out of the freezer and run under warm water for a minute or so.
8. Take the bottom of the mold off and push the glycerin soap tube out of the mold with the eraser end of a pencil.
Glycerin with Shea Butter
Ingredients
2 cups glycerin soap base
2 tablespoons melted shea butter
5 drops orange essential oil
Instructions
Mix ingredients thoroughly, pour into molds.
This soap is a good moisturizer. Shea butter has some sun protection qualities, but be sure to still put on the sunscreen!
Marmalade Soap
Ingredients
2 3/4 cups (400g)grated glycerin soap
orange coloring (can use mace powder (2tsp/10ml) mixed with (4 T/60ml) of veg. oil)
1 teaspoon/5 ml sweet orange essential oil
Pinch each of dried marigold or chamomile flowers and pinch of dried orange zest
Instructions
Melt glycerin soap over low heat in double boiler. Add color as melting nears completion and turn off heat. Stir in essential oil. Pour into molds. Mix in flowers and zest with a toothpick as soap cools in the mold.
This soap has a nice fragrance and interesting look. As with all glycerin soaps, wrap tightly as the glycerin will attract moisture from the air.
Strawberry Cream Soap
Ingredients
1 pound white glycerin soap base
1 teaspoon sugar
4 tablespoons Sweet Almond oil
2 drops of red coloring
5 drops strawberry fragrance oil
10 drops vanilla fragrance oil
Instructions
Melt glycerin in microwave. Add almond oil, color and fragrance. Stir until mixed. Pour into molds. Cool.
You could also make orange cream by substituting orange essential oil and color for the strawberry.
Aloe and Nettle Soap
Ingredients
1 cup glycerin soap base
1/8 cup aloe vera gel
2 tablespoons powdered nettle leaf (available in capsule form that makes it easier to handle and store)
or you can use simmered, macerated fresh leaf
Instructions
Melt glycerin in microwave. I like using a large pyrex measuring cup. Mix in aloe and nettle. Pour into molds. Cool.
Don't touch fresh nettle leaves without wearing gloves and tranport in disposable bags. When fresh, undried or before being boiled, nettle's have a very fine fuzz on the surface that carries formic acid. Same dissipates after drying or boiling.
Calamine Soap
Ingredients
1 tablespoon calamine powder (or two tablespoons calamine lotion)
1 tablespoon bentonite or cosmetic-grade clay
2 tablespoons liquid glycerin
1 cup glycerin soap base
Instructions
MIx the calamine, clay, and liquid glycerin until smooth, adding a small amount of water, if needed. Whisk the mixture into the soap base, pour into molds, and cool.
Calamine soap is mild and good for skin irritations, such as poison ivy.
Lavender and Rosemary Soap
Ingredients
3 cups glycerin soap base
1/4 cup infusion of lavender flowers and rosemary leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons of lavender oil
1 1/2 teaspoons of rosemary oil
1 teaspoon pulverized dried rosemary
Instructions
Melt soap base and add other ingredients. Stir until blended, then pour into molds.
Infusion basically means to make tea. Pour hot water over fresh or dried plant parts. Three tablespoons of herb per cup of water for ten minutes should do fine. Use distilled water, if possible. Nonchlorinated water is best.
Tea Tree Antiseptic Soap
Ingredients
2 cups glycerin soap base
2 tablespoons tea tree oil
Instructions
Melt glycerin base in the microwave at 30 second intervals. Blend in tea tree oil and pour into molds. Place molds in the freezer for ten minutes for a quicker set up. It is also easier to remove soap from the molds after freezing. Set the unmolded soap onto plastic needlepoint sheets for drying-one hour before using. Let dry overnight before wrapping.
Tea tree oil is an essential oil extracted from the leaves of the Australian tea tree. The oil works agains bacteria, fungi, yeasts, and viruses that attack the skin. It is a nice deoderant soap which is effective in cleaning out minor cuts and treating athlete's foot.
Rosemary and Lavender Soap
Ingredients
3 cups glycerin soap base
1/4 cup infusion of rosemary leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons lavender oil
Instructions
Take four snips of fresh Rosemary of one teaspoon dried. Pour one cup of boiling water over same. Let sit one hour and strain. Melt glycerin in saucepan on low heat. Add 1/4 cup of infusion (remainder can be stored in refridgerator for another batch). Stir in lavender essential oil and any color desired. Pour into molds and procede as usual.
The lavender and rosemary have a mild stimulating effect on the skin. This soap makes a great gift. It is especially recommended for the bath.
Honey Bee Soap
Ingredients
1 tablespoon beeswax
1 cup melted opaque soap base
1 tablespoon honey
Instructions
Melt beeswax in double boiler and mix with melted soap base. Add honey and stir until melted. Pour into mold. Unmold when hardened. Let cure on a drying rack.
Try using a bee skip (hive) mold. This is a smooth, light fragrance soap.
Transparent Soap
This is a basic recipe for "glycerin" soap. Actually, all homemade soaps are glycerin soaps because the natural glycerin in them has not been removed. This recipe is for what we think of when we say glycerin soap.
Ingredients
1 pound 9 ounces distilled water
12 ounces lye
2 pounds 8 ounces palm oil
1 pound coconut oil
1 pound 9 ounces castor oil
1 pound 12 ounces ethanol
8 ounces glycerin
15 ounces distilled water with 1 pound 4 ounces sugar dissolved into a solution
Instructions
Measure and mix the lye and water. Allow to cool until between 135 and 145 degrees F. (57-62 Celsius)
Heat the oils and bring to the same temperature as the lye solution.
Once the lye and oils are the same temperature, mix and stir for five minutes.
Add the alcohol and stir another five minutes. This should form a clear solution.
Prepare a plastic cover for the soap pot. A large piece of 4 ml plastic should be secured with a bungee cord. Make sure there is some extra plastic draping over as this will need to expand a little and must stay secured. Secure a second piece of plastic in the same manner to reduce the evaporation of alcohol during boiling.
Set the soap pot in a larger pot filled with three inches of softly boiling water.
Within five minutes the soap mixture should begin to boil and the plastic will puff up. Adjust the temperature on the stove to keep this gently boil going inside the soap pot. This solution need two hours to saponify/neutralize. Check the plastic to make sure it doesn't escape from the bungee cord.
After two hours, stir in the glycerin and the sugar solution. Stir for about three minutes. To test put a spoonful of soap onto an inverted glass. Once cool, is it clear? If not try adding two ounces more of alcohol, which may have escaped during boiling.
Cover and let sit for 15 minutes before adding dye or fragrance.
Use caution when adding alcohol to simmering soap. Be certain the soap is not too hot. Do not boil.
Translucent Soap
This is another basic recipe for "glycerin" soap.
Ingredients
16 ounces (454 g) coconut oil
6 ounces (170 g) tallow
2 four-ounce (113 g) bottles of castor oil
4 ounces (113 g) lye
10 ounces (283 g) water
8 ounces (227 g) granulated sugar
10 ounces (283 g) 80 proof vodka
Instructions
Take the oil, fat, lye and water and Follow Basic Soap instructions.
Allow soap to set up for two days.
Slice/grate the soap into small pieces. Use gloves during this process because the lye may be still active.
Melt over low heat until gently simmering.
As the soap is melted, add the sugar and the vodka. Mix in gently to avoid sudsing which can make final bars murky instead of clear.
Continue to simmer for 10 minutes to boil off the alcohol. A layer will form on the top but underneath should be clear.
Remove from heat and skim off top coating. This can be used to make soap balls.
Pour the soap into individual molds.
Use caution when adding alcohol to simmering soap. Be certain the soap is not too hot. Do not boil.
Ingredients
2 cups glycerin soap base
2 tablespoons melted shea butter
5 drops orange essential oil
Instructions
Mix ingredients thoroughly, pour into molds.
This soap is a good moisturizer. Shea butter has some sun protection qualities, but be sure to still put on the sunscreen!
Marmalade Soap
Ingredients
2 3/4 cups (400g)grated glycerin soap
orange coloring (can use mace powder (2tsp/10ml) mixed with (4 T/60ml) of veg. oil)
1 teaspoon/5 ml sweet orange essential oil
Pinch each of dried marigold or chamomile flowers and pinch of dried orange zest
Instructions
Melt glycerin soap over low heat in double boiler. Add color as melting nears completion and turn off heat. Stir in essential oil. Pour into molds. Mix in flowers and zest with a toothpick as soap cools in the mold.
This soap has a nice fragrance and interesting look. As with all glycerin soaps, wrap tightly as the glycerin will attract moisture from the air.
Strawberry Cream Soap
Ingredients
1 pound white glycerin soap base
1 teaspoon sugar
4 tablespoons Sweet Almond oil
2 drops of red coloring
5 drops strawberry fragrance oil
10 drops vanilla fragrance oil
Instructions
Melt glycerin in microwave. Add almond oil, color and fragrance. Stir until mixed. Pour into molds. Cool.
You could also make orange cream by substituting orange essential oil and color for the strawberry.
Aloe and Nettle Soap
Ingredients
1 cup glycerin soap base
1/8 cup aloe vera gel
2 tablespoons powdered nettle leaf (available in capsule form that makes it easier to handle and store)
or you can use simmered, macerated fresh leaf
Instructions
Melt glycerin in microwave. I like using a large pyrex measuring cup. Mix in aloe and nettle. Pour into molds. Cool.
Don't touch fresh nettle leaves without wearing gloves and tranport in disposable bags. When fresh, undried or before being boiled, nettle's have a very fine fuzz on the surface that carries formic acid. Same dissipates after drying or boiling.
Calamine Soap
Ingredients
1 tablespoon calamine powder (or two tablespoons calamine lotion)
1 tablespoon bentonite or cosmetic-grade clay
2 tablespoons liquid glycerin
1 cup glycerin soap base
Instructions
MIx the calamine, clay, and liquid glycerin until smooth, adding a small amount of water, if needed. Whisk the mixture into the soap base, pour into molds, and cool.
Calamine soap is mild and good for skin irritations, such as poison ivy.
Lavender and Rosemary Soap
Ingredients
3 cups glycerin soap base
1/4 cup infusion of lavender flowers and rosemary leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons of lavender oil
1 1/2 teaspoons of rosemary oil
1 teaspoon pulverized dried rosemary
Instructions
Melt soap base and add other ingredients. Stir until blended, then pour into molds.
Infusion basically means to make tea. Pour hot water over fresh or dried plant parts. Three tablespoons of herb per cup of water for ten minutes should do fine. Use distilled water, if possible. Nonchlorinated water is best.
Tea Tree Antiseptic Soap
Ingredients
2 cups glycerin soap base
2 tablespoons tea tree oil
Instructions
Melt glycerin base in the microwave at 30 second intervals. Blend in tea tree oil and pour into molds. Place molds in the freezer for ten minutes for a quicker set up. It is also easier to remove soap from the molds after freezing. Set the unmolded soap onto plastic needlepoint sheets for drying-one hour before using. Let dry overnight before wrapping.
Tea tree oil is an essential oil extracted from the leaves of the Australian tea tree. The oil works agains bacteria, fungi, yeasts, and viruses that attack the skin. It is a nice deoderant soap which is effective in cleaning out minor cuts and treating athlete's foot.
Rosemary and Lavender Soap
Ingredients
3 cups glycerin soap base
1/4 cup infusion of rosemary leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons lavender oil
Instructions
Take four snips of fresh Rosemary of one teaspoon dried. Pour one cup of boiling water over same. Let sit one hour and strain. Melt glycerin in saucepan on low heat. Add 1/4 cup of infusion (remainder can be stored in refridgerator for another batch). Stir in lavender essential oil and any color desired. Pour into molds and procede as usual.
The lavender and rosemary have a mild stimulating effect on the skin. This soap makes a great gift. It is especially recommended for the bath.
Honey Bee Soap
Ingredients
1 tablespoon beeswax
1 cup melted opaque soap base
1 tablespoon honey
Instructions
Melt beeswax in double boiler and mix with melted soap base. Add honey and stir until melted. Pour into mold. Unmold when hardened. Let cure on a drying rack.
Try using a bee skip (hive) mold. This is a smooth, light fragrance soap.
Transparent Soap
This is a basic recipe for "glycerin" soap. Actually, all homemade soaps are glycerin soaps because the natural glycerin in them has not been removed. This recipe is for what we think of when we say glycerin soap.
Ingredients
1 pound 9 ounces distilled water
12 ounces lye
2 pounds 8 ounces palm oil
1 pound coconut oil
1 pound 9 ounces castor oil
1 pound 12 ounces ethanol
8 ounces glycerin
15 ounces distilled water with 1 pound 4 ounces sugar dissolved into a solution
Instructions
Measure and mix the lye and water. Allow to cool until between 135 and 145 degrees F. (57-62 Celsius)
Heat the oils and bring to the same temperature as the lye solution.
Once the lye and oils are the same temperature, mix and stir for five minutes.
Add the alcohol and stir another five minutes. This should form a clear solution.
Prepare a plastic cover for the soap pot. A large piece of 4 ml plastic should be secured with a bungee cord. Make sure there is some extra plastic draping over as this will need to expand a little and must stay secured. Secure a second piece of plastic in the same manner to reduce the evaporation of alcohol during boiling.
Set the soap pot in a larger pot filled with three inches of softly boiling water.
Within five minutes the soap mixture should begin to boil and the plastic will puff up. Adjust the temperature on the stove to keep this gently boil going inside the soap pot. This solution need two hours to saponify/neutralize. Check the plastic to make sure it doesn't escape from the bungee cord.
After two hours, stir in the glycerin and the sugar solution. Stir for about three minutes. To test put a spoonful of soap onto an inverted glass. Once cool, is it clear? If not try adding two ounces more of alcohol, which may have escaped during boiling.
Cover and let sit for 15 minutes before adding dye or fragrance.
Use caution when adding alcohol to simmering soap. Be certain the soap is not too hot. Do not boil.
Translucent Soap
This is another basic recipe for "glycerin" soap.
Ingredients
16 ounces (454 g) coconut oil
6 ounces (170 g) tallow
2 four-ounce (113 g) bottles of castor oil
4 ounces (113 g) lye
10 ounces (283 g) water
8 ounces (227 g) granulated sugar
10 ounces (283 g) 80 proof vodka
Instructions
Take the oil, fat, lye and water and Follow Basic Soap instructions.
Allow soap to set up for two days.
Slice/grate the soap into small pieces. Use gloves during this process because the lye may be still active.
Melt over low heat until gently simmering.
As the soap is melted, add the sugar and the vodka. Mix in gently to avoid sudsing which can make final bars murky instead of clear.
Continue to simmer for 10 minutes to boil off the alcohol. A layer will form on the top but underneath should be clear.
Remove from heat and skim off top coating. This can be used to make soap balls.
Pour the soap into individual molds.
Use caution when adding alcohol to simmering soap. Be certain the soap is not too hot. Do not boil.
basic instructions for melt-and-pour soap recipe
Materials and Supplies:
4 oz clear glycerin soap base
4-8 drops soap fragrance
4-oz capacity soap mold
microwave-safe measuring cup (2-cup size)
instant-read thermometer
spray bottle filled with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol
vegetable oil in oil mister or vegetable oil
(do not use pan spray)
Instructions:
Prepare the soap mold by spritzing lightly with vegetable oil sprayer and wiping nearly dry.
Cut clear glycerin soap base in 1-inch chunks. Place soap in a microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat on High for 15 seconds, then for 5 second intervals until soap is melted. Do not allow soap to boil. Remove measuring cup from microwave.
Add fragrance, colorant, and soap glitter if desired. Add these ingredients sparingly, a drop at a time. General guidelines are 1 to 4 drops soap fragrance per ounce, 1 to 4 drops colorant per 4-ounce bar. Mix gently but thoroughly after each addition.
Insert an instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup), move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared mold.
Immediately spritz the soap surface with a light mist of rubbing alcohol to control any bubbles that have risen to the surface.
Cool soap completely before attempting to unmold. You may put the mold in the refrigerator to cool, but do not put it in the freezer. Press the mold gently with your thumb to unmold.
Allow soap to cure 3 to 4 weeks before wrapping. Wrap completed soap with clear plastic food wrap, and attach a gift label with soap contents listed.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
Materials and Supplies:
4 oz clear glycerin soap base
4-8 drops soap fragrance
4-oz capacity soap mold
microwave-safe measuring cup (2-cup size)
instant-read thermometer
spray bottle filled with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol
vegetable oil in oil mister or vegetable oil
(do not use pan spray)
Instructions:
Prepare the soap mold by spritzing lightly with vegetable oil sprayer and wiping nearly dry.
Cut clear glycerin soap base in 1-inch chunks. Place soap in a microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat on High for 15 seconds, then for 5 second intervals until soap is melted. Do not allow soap to boil. Remove measuring cup from microwave.
Add fragrance, colorant, and soap glitter if desired. Add these ingredients sparingly, a drop at a time. General guidelines are 1 to 4 drops soap fragrance per ounce, 1 to 4 drops colorant per 4-ounce bar. Mix gently but thoroughly after each addition.
Insert an instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup), move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared mold.
Immediately spritz the soap surface with a light mist of rubbing alcohol to control any bubbles that have risen to the surface.
Cool soap completely before attempting to unmold. You may put the mold in the refrigerator to cool, but do not put it in the freezer. Press the mold gently with your thumb to unmold.
Allow soap to cure 3 to 4 weeks before wrapping. Wrap completed soap with clear plastic food wrap, and attach a gift label with soap contents listed.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
tips for melt-and-pour soap
by Cynthia Townley Ewer
Editor, OrganizedHome.Com
New to melt-and-pour soap, but you're ready to try this new craft? Keep these tips in mind for soap success. They'll help take you from newbie to master crafter in short order.
kit and caboodle
Brand-new to soap craft? Try a kit! Soap-making kits contain everything you'll need to create your first projects. They're usually a bit less expensive than purchasing components separately, and they can teach you the ins and outs of a new craft quickly. A good kit will spark your imagination for more ambitious endeavors, start you off with an assortment of tools and supplies, and give motivation a boost. Find kits at crafts stores, or look online for soap kits at joann.com:
patience is a virtue
All told, melt-and-pour soap-making requires only simple skills: cut, heat, cool and pour. Try to rush the job, however, and you'll mar the final product.
Patience is a virtue with soap-making. Each bar is built as a series of steps, with time between to allow for cooling of the soap base, hardening of poured soaps to support soap inclusions, and cooling completely before removing from the molds. Rush any of these processes, and you'll see the adverse reaction in the soap.
measure by measure
Soap-making isn't a difficult process, but it requires precision. Save time and soap mistakes by using an instant-read thermometer. It will monitor soap temperature precisely, saving time and patience. Add a timer so you can safely attend to other tasks when soap cools.
less is more
At each step of the soap-making process, less is more. When heating cubes of soap base, microwave in short bursts, checking often--soap melts much more quickly than you might think. Overheating can cause quality to decline (and create a microwave mess), so never allow melted soap to boil.
Scent should be added sparingly. Soap, unlike other scented products, has scent embedded throughout the product; as it's used, more scent releases. There's no need to over-scent for fear that the fragrance will dissipate. Noses become overloaded quickly when using scented products. Remind yourself that what you smell after an hour of crafting is only a tiny fraction of what a fresh nose will experience. As a guideline, use only 1 to 4 drops of scent per ounce of soap.
Color soaps with a light hand. Over-use of colorant, even made specially for use in soap products, can cause staining when the soap is used. Add colorant drop by drop, blending well after each addition. It's easier to add a bit more colorant than it is to try to rescue an over-colored soap!
tips of the trade
Soap experts know that rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol in a spray bottle is an essential piece of soap-crafting equipment. Use a light spritz of alcohol on all soap inclusions. Alcohol will enhance adhesion and remove any bubbles from the surface of the inclusion. Another spritz to the back-side of a newly-poured bar removes tiny bubbles that cloud clear soaps.
To oil or not to oil? Published soap references differ on the use of pan spray to lubricate soap molds. Most authorities recommend against using pan spray. Instead, use an oil mister to deliver a very fine mist of vegetable cooking oil to the mold. Wipe nearly dry with a paper towel before pouring soap into the mold.
Don't rush! Molds release best when the soap is thoroughly cooled. Removing soaps too early can cause stress marks in clear bars. In hot weather, do put cooling soap molds in the refrigerator to make unmolding easier. Never freeze soap, however.
a squeaky clean ending
Soap is soap, and dishwasher detergent is detergent, and never the twain should meet. Soak soap-making equipment and remove soap residue completely before placing in the dishwasher. Soap residue can cause excessive sudsing, suds lock and dishwasher flooding. [Go on ... ask me how I know!]
by Cynthia Townley Ewer
Editor, OrganizedHome.Com
New to melt-and-pour soap, but you're ready to try this new craft? Keep these tips in mind for soap success. They'll help take you from newbie to master crafter in short order.
kit and caboodle
Brand-new to soap craft? Try a kit! Soap-making kits contain everything you'll need to create your first projects. They're usually a bit less expensive than purchasing components separately, and they can teach you the ins and outs of a new craft quickly. A good kit will spark your imagination for more ambitious endeavors, start you off with an assortment of tools and supplies, and give motivation a boost. Find kits at crafts stores, or look online for soap kits at joann.com:
patience is a virtue
All told, melt-and-pour soap-making requires only simple skills: cut, heat, cool and pour. Try to rush the job, however, and you'll mar the final product.
Patience is a virtue with soap-making. Each bar is built as a series of steps, with time between to allow for cooling of the soap base, hardening of poured soaps to support soap inclusions, and cooling completely before removing from the molds. Rush any of these processes, and you'll see the adverse reaction in the soap.
measure by measure
Soap-making isn't a difficult process, but it requires precision. Save time and soap mistakes by using an instant-read thermometer. It will monitor soap temperature precisely, saving time and patience. Add a timer so you can safely attend to other tasks when soap cools.
less is more
At each step of the soap-making process, less is more. When heating cubes of soap base, microwave in short bursts, checking often--soap melts much more quickly than you might think. Overheating can cause quality to decline (and create a microwave mess), so never allow melted soap to boil.
Scent should be added sparingly. Soap, unlike other scented products, has scent embedded throughout the product; as it's used, more scent releases. There's no need to over-scent for fear that the fragrance will dissipate. Noses become overloaded quickly when using scented products. Remind yourself that what you smell after an hour of crafting is only a tiny fraction of what a fresh nose will experience. As a guideline, use only 1 to 4 drops of scent per ounce of soap.
Color soaps with a light hand. Over-use of colorant, even made specially for use in soap products, can cause staining when the soap is used. Add colorant drop by drop, blending well after each addition. It's easier to add a bit more colorant than it is to try to rescue an over-colored soap!
tips of the trade
Soap experts know that rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol in a spray bottle is an essential piece of soap-crafting equipment. Use a light spritz of alcohol on all soap inclusions. Alcohol will enhance adhesion and remove any bubbles from the surface of the inclusion. Another spritz to the back-side of a newly-poured bar removes tiny bubbles that cloud clear soaps.
To oil or not to oil? Published soap references differ on the use of pan spray to lubricate soap molds. Most authorities recommend against using pan spray. Instead, use an oil mister to deliver a very fine mist of vegetable cooking oil to the mold. Wipe nearly dry with a paper towel before pouring soap into the mold.
Don't rush! Molds release best when the soap is thoroughly cooled. Removing soaps too early can cause stress marks in clear bars. In hot weather, do put cooling soap molds in the refrigerator to make unmolding easier. Never freeze soap, however.
a squeaky clean ending
Soap is soap, and dishwasher detergent is detergent, and never the twain should meet. Soak soap-making equipment and remove soap residue completely before placing in the dishwasher. Soap residue can cause excessive sudsing, suds lock and dishwasher flooding. [Go on ... ask me how I know!]
starry night
melt-and-pour soap recipe
by Cynthia Townley Ewer
Editor, OrganizedHome.Com
Transparent soap the color of the sky. A crescent moon and shining star glow through a sweep of glitter stars.
This project teaches how to add cut-out opaque soap inclusions to clear bars.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
Materials and Supplies:
3 oz clear glycerin soap base
1 oz opaque glycerin soap base
small pinch soap glitter
2 drops blue soap colorant
8 drops soap fragrance
4 oz-capacity soap mold
microwave-safe measuring cup (2-cup size)
instant-read thermometer
small loaf pan
small moon and star cookie cutters
spray bottle filled with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol
bamboo skewers
vegetable oil in oil mister or vegetable oil
(do not use pan spray)
Instructions:
Spritz loaf pan sheet with vegetable oil.
Cut opaque soap base into 1/2-inch chunks and place in microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat in microwave for on High for 10 seconds, followed by 5 second intervals until melted. Do not allow soap to boil.
Insert instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup, move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared loaf pan. Soap should measure 1/8th to 1/4-th inch thick.
Allow to cool until nearly hard, about 15-20 minutes. Use cookie cutters to cut out small moon and star shapes from the opaque soap. Remove from pan and set aside.
Prepare the soap mold by spritzing lightly with vegetable oil sprayer and wiping nearly dry.
Cut clear glycerin soap base in 1-inch chunks. Place three ounces soap in a microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat on High for 15 seconds, then for 5 second intervals until soap is melted. Do not allow soap to boil.
Remove measuring cup from microwave. Stir in 8 drops soap fragrance, mixing thoroughly. Add 2 drops blue colorant and mix. Add small pinch of soap glitter, and stir gently.
Insert an instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup), move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared mold, filling the mold 1/4th to 1/3rd full.
Allow mold to stand for 5 to 10 minutes, until it has formed a skin strong enough to support the opaque soap pieces. Spritz moon and star lightly with rubbing alcohol, and place gently on the cooled soap film. Use the bamboo skewers to make any tiny adjustments necessary. Allow to cool for 10 to 15 minutes.
Reheat remaining soap in measuring cup, stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour soap gently over opaque moon and star, adding only enough soap to barely cover moon and star. Allow soap in mold to cool and form a skin for 10 to 15 minutes.
When inclusions are fairly firmly embedded in cooled soap, reheat the remaining soap in the measuring cup. Stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour remaining soap into the mold, filling the mold completely. Immediately spritz the soap surface with a light mist of rubbing alcohol to control any bubbles that have risen to the surface.
Cool soap completely before attempting to unmold. You may put the mold in the refrigerator to cool, but do not put it in the freezer. Press the mold gently with your thumb to unmold.
Allow 3 to 4 weeks for soap to cure before wrapping. Wrap completed soap with clear plastic food wrap, and attach a gift label with soap contents listed.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
melt-and-pour soap recipe
by Cynthia Townley Ewer
Editor, OrganizedHome.Com
Transparent soap the color of the sky. A crescent moon and shining star glow through a sweep of glitter stars.
This project teaches how to add cut-out opaque soap inclusions to clear bars.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
Materials and Supplies:
3 oz clear glycerin soap base
1 oz opaque glycerin soap base
small pinch soap glitter
2 drops blue soap colorant
8 drops soap fragrance
4 oz-capacity soap mold
microwave-safe measuring cup (2-cup size)
instant-read thermometer
small loaf pan
small moon and star cookie cutters
spray bottle filled with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol
bamboo skewers
vegetable oil in oil mister or vegetable oil
(do not use pan spray)
Instructions:
Spritz loaf pan sheet with vegetable oil.
Cut opaque soap base into 1/2-inch chunks and place in microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat in microwave for on High for 10 seconds, followed by 5 second intervals until melted. Do not allow soap to boil.
Insert instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup, move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared loaf pan. Soap should measure 1/8th to 1/4-th inch thick.
Allow to cool until nearly hard, about 15-20 minutes. Use cookie cutters to cut out small moon and star shapes from the opaque soap. Remove from pan and set aside.
Prepare the soap mold by spritzing lightly with vegetable oil sprayer and wiping nearly dry.
Cut clear glycerin soap base in 1-inch chunks. Place three ounces soap in a microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat on High for 15 seconds, then for 5 second intervals until soap is melted. Do not allow soap to boil.
Remove measuring cup from microwave. Stir in 8 drops soap fragrance, mixing thoroughly. Add 2 drops blue colorant and mix. Add small pinch of soap glitter, and stir gently.
Insert an instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup), move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared mold, filling the mold 1/4th to 1/3rd full.
Allow mold to stand for 5 to 10 minutes, until it has formed a skin strong enough to support the opaque soap pieces. Spritz moon and star lightly with rubbing alcohol, and place gently on the cooled soap film. Use the bamboo skewers to make any tiny adjustments necessary. Allow to cool for 10 to 15 minutes.
Reheat remaining soap in measuring cup, stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour soap gently over opaque moon and star, adding only enough soap to barely cover moon and star. Allow soap in mold to cool and form a skin for 10 to 15 minutes.
When inclusions are fairly firmly embedded in cooled soap, reheat the remaining soap in the measuring cup. Stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour remaining soap into the mold, filling the mold completely. Immediately spritz the soap surface with a light mist of rubbing alcohol to control any bubbles that have risen to the surface.
Cool soap completely before attempting to unmold. You may put the mold in the refrigerator to cool, but do not put it in the freezer. Press the mold gently with your thumb to unmold.
Allow 3 to 4 weeks for soap to cure before wrapping. Wrap completed soap with clear plastic food wrap, and attach a gift label with soap contents listed.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
alphabet blocks
melt-and-pour soap recipe
by Cynthia Townley Ewer
Editor, OrganizedHome.Com
Splish-splash! A special child's name embedded in a bar of clear soap makes bath time fun for little ones. Pre-cut foam shapes make it easy.
More ideas? Add holiday messages to soaps for the guest room. For a "lady of the manor" touch, create personalized soaps with monograms or the family name for guest baths.
Makes 2 4-ounce bars.
Materials and Supplies:
8 oz clear glycerin soap base
16 drops soap fragrance
2 4-oz capacity soap molds
"fun foam" alphabet letters
microwave-safe measuring cup (2-cup size)
instant-read thermometer
spray bottle filled with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol
bamboo skewers
vegetable oil in oil mister or vegetable oil
(do not use pan spray)
Instructions:
Prepare the soap molds by spritzing lightly with vegetable oil sprayer and wiping nearly dry.
Cut clear glycerin soap base in 1-inch chunks. Place four ounces soap in a microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat on High for 15 seconds, then for 5 second intervals until soap is melted. Do not allow soap to boil.
Remove measuring cup from microwave. Stir in 8 drops soap fragrance, mixing thoroughly.
Insert an instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup), move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared mold, filling the mold 1/4th to 1/3rd full.
While waiting, arrange letters to form the desired name. Reverse each letter (so it points backward) and reverse the order of the letters. Check with a mirror to make sure the name reads correctly when reversed.
Allow mold to stand for 5 to 10 minutes, until it has formed a skin strong enough to support the foam letter pieces. Spritz letters lightly with rubbing alcohol, and place letters in reverse gently on the cooled soap film. Use the bamboo skewers to make any tiny adjustments necessary. Allow to cool for 10 to 15 minutes.
Place remaining 4 ounces soap in measuring cup and heat. Add 8 drops soap fragrance, stir thoroughly and cool to 120 degrees. Pour soap gently over alphabet pieces, adding only enough soap to barely cover. Allow soap in mold to cool and form a skin for 10 to 15 minutes.
When alphabet letters are firmly embedded in cooled soap, reheat the remaining soap in the measuring cup. Stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour remaining soap into the mold, covering letters completely. Immediately spritz the soap surface with a light mist of rubbing alcohol to control any bubbles that have risen to the surface.
Cool soap completely before attempting to unmold. You may put the mold in the refrigerator to cool, but do not put it in the freezer. Press the mold gently with your thumb to unmold.
Allow soap to cure for 2 to 3 weeks before wrapping. Wrap completed soap with clear plastic food wrap, and attach a gift label with soap contents listed.
Makes 2 4-ounce bars.
melt-and-pour soap recipe
by Cynthia Townley Ewer
Editor, OrganizedHome.Com
Splish-splash! A special child's name embedded in a bar of clear soap makes bath time fun for little ones. Pre-cut foam shapes make it easy.
More ideas? Add holiday messages to soaps for the guest room. For a "lady of the manor" touch, create personalized soaps with monograms or the family name for guest baths.
Makes 2 4-ounce bars.
Materials and Supplies:
8 oz clear glycerin soap base
16 drops soap fragrance
2 4-oz capacity soap molds
"fun foam" alphabet letters
microwave-safe measuring cup (2-cup size)
instant-read thermometer
spray bottle filled with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol
bamboo skewers
vegetable oil in oil mister or vegetable oil
(do not use pan spray)
Instructions:
Prepare the soap molds by spritzing lightly with vegetable oil sprayer and wiping nearly dry.
Cut clear glycerin soap base in 1-inch chunks. Place four ounces soap in a microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat on High for 15 seconds, then for 5 second intervals until soap is melted. Do not allow soap to boil.
Remove measuring cup from microwave. Stir in 8 drops soap fragrance, mixing thoroughly.
Insert an instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup), move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared mold, filling the mold 1/4th to 1/3rd full.
While waiting, arrange letters to form the desired name. Reverse each letter (so it points backward) and reverse the order of the letters. Check with a mirror to make sure the name reads correctly when reversed.
Allow mold to stand for 5 to 10 minutes, until it has formed a skin strong enough to support the foam letter pieces. Spritz letters lightly with rubbing alcohol, and place letters in reverse gently on the cooled soap film. Use the bamboo skewers to make any tiny adjustments necessary. Allow to cool for 10 to 15 minutes.
Place remaining 4 ounces soap in measuring cup and heat. Add 8 drops soap fragrance, stir thoroughly and cool to 120 degrees. Pour soap gently over alphabet pieces, adding only enough soap to barely cover. Allow soap in mold to cool and form a skin for 10 to 15 minutes.
When alphabet letters are firmly embedded in cooled soap, reheat the remaining soap in the measuring cup. Stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour remaining soap into the mold, covering letters completely. Immediately spritz the soap surface with a light mist of rubbing alcohol to control any bubbles that have risen to the surface.
Cool soap completely before attempting to unmold. You may put the mold in the refrigerator to cool, but do not put it in the freezer. Press the mold gently with your thumb to unmold.
Allow soap to cure for 2 to 3 weeks before wrapping. Wrap completed soap with clear plastic food wrap, and attach a gift label with soap contents listed.
Makes 2 4-ounce bars.
Confetti Creations
melt-and-pour soap recipe
by Cynthia Townley Ewer
Editor, OrganizedHome.Com
A two-in-one gift for a special little girl: colorful plastic hair ornaments encased in a bar of glittering soap.
Made with clear glycerin soap base, soap fragrance and a pinch of soap glitter, this simple soap is an excellent beginning project.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
Materials and Supplies:
4 oz clear glycerin soap base
small pinch soap glitter
8 drops lavender blossom soap fragrance
assorted small plastic hair ornaments
(we used spiral hair twists)
4 oz-capacity soap mold
microwave-safe measuring cup (2-cup size)
instant-read thermometer
spray bottle filled with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol
bamboo skewers
vegetable oil in oil mister or vegetable oil
(do not use pan spray)
Instructions:
Prepare the soap mold by spritzing lightly with vegetable oil sprayer and wiping nearly dry.
Cut clear glycerin soap base in 1-inch chunks. Place four ounces soap in a microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat on High for 15 seconds, then for 5 second intervals until soap is melted. Do not allow soap to boil.
Remove measuring cup from microwave. Stir in 8 drops soap fragrance, mixing thoroughly. Add small pinch of soap glitter, and stir gently.
Insert an instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup), move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared mold, filling the mold 1/4th to 1/3rd full.
Allow mold to stand for 5 to 10 minutes, until it has formed a skin strong enough to support the hair ornaments. Spritz each hair ornament lightly with rubbing alcohol, and place gently on the cooled soap film. Use the bamboo skewers to make any tiny adjustments necessary.
Reheat remaining soap in measuring cup, stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour soap gently over hair ornaments, adding only enough soap to barely cover ornaments. Allow soap in mold to cool and form a skin for 10 to 15 minutes.
When ornaments are fairly firmly embedded in cooled soap, reheat the remaining soap in the measuring cup. Stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour remaining soap into the mold, covering hair ornaments completely. Immediately spritz the soap surface with a light mist of rubbing alcohol to control any bubbles that have risen to the surface.
Cool soap completely before attempting to unmold. You may put the mold in the refrigerator to cool, but do not put it in the freezer. Press the mold gently with your thumb to unmold.
Allow 3 to 4 weeks for soap to cure before wrapping. Wrap completed soap with clear plastic food wrap, and attach a gift label with soap contents listed.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
melt-and-pour soap recipe
by Cynthia Townley Ewer
Editor, OrganizedHome.Com
A two-in-one gift for a special little girl: colorful plastic hair ornaments encased in a bar of glittering soap.
Made with clear glycerin soap base, soap fragrance and a pinch of soap glitter, this simple soap is an excellent beginning project.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
Materials and Supplies:
4 oz clear glycerin soap base
small pinch soap glitter
8 drops lavender blossom soap fragrance
assorted small plastic hair ornaments
(we used spiral hair twists)
4 oz-capacity soap mold
microwave-safe measuring cup (2-cup size)
instant-read thermometer
spray bottle filled with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol
bamboo skewers
vegetable oil in oil mister or vegetable oil
(do not use pan spray)
Instructions:
Prepare the soap mold by spritzing lightly with vegetable oil sprayer and wiping nearly dry.
Cut clear glycerin soap base in 1-inch chunks. Place four ounces soap in a microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat on High for 15 seconds, then for 5 second intervals until soap is melted. Do not allow soap to boil.
Remove measuring cup from microwave. Stir in 8 drops soap fragrance, mixing thoroughly. Add small pinch of soap glitter, and stir gently.
Insert an instant-read thermometer to monitor soap temperature. When thermometer reads 120 degrees (or when soap forms a skin in the measuring cup), move skin aside and gently pour soap into prepared mold, filling the mold 1/4th to 1/3rd full.
Allow mold to stand for 5 to 10 minutes, until it has formed a skin strong enough to support the hair ornaments. Spritz each hair ornament lightly with rubbing alcohol, and place gently on the cooled soap film. Use the bamboo skewers to make any tiny adjustments necessary.
Reheat remaining soap in measuring cup, stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour soap gently over hair ornaments, adding only enough soap to barely cover ornaments. Allow soap in mold to cool and form a skin for 10 to 15 minutes.
When ornaments are fairly firmly embedded in cooled soap, reheat the remaining soap in the measuring cup. Stir and cool to 120 degrees. Pour remaining soap into the mold, covering hair ornaments completely. Immediately spritz the soap surface with a light mist of rubbing alcohol to control any bubbles that have risen to the surface.
Cool soap completely before attempting to unmold. You may put the mold in the refrigerator to cool, but do not put it in the freezer. Press the mold gently with your thumb to unmold.
Allow 3 to 4 weeks for soap to cure before wrapping. Wrap completed soap with clear plastic food wrap, and attach a gift label with soap contents listed.
Makes 1 4-ounce bar.
Glycerin Melt & Pour Soap
Make all kinds of wonderful and beautiful soaps at home.
Glycerin Melt & Pour Soap is so easy to use in crafting! Just about any fragrance or perfume can be added. Melt it on your stove in a double boiler, or in your microwave. Then add all your wonderful fragrances, colors, herbs, flowers, fruits, and your personal creative touch. It is so clear that you can even put toys inside each bar!
You can color it, craft it, pour into fun molds, cut it with cookie cutters! The list is endless. It is the most versatile crafting soap. Many professional soap makers use only glycerin Melt & Pour soap to make their beautiful creations.
Glycerin Melt and Pour soap is sold as transparent (you can see right through it) or Opaque (it is a solid white color). Both can be colored with specially designed color tabs.
There is a great deal of difference between suppliers. You want a Glycerin Melt and Pour Soap Base that doesn't set up really, really fast. You want to be able to work with your soap for a minute before it sets up.
It MUST be very gentle on the skin. Make sure it doesn't have a terrible smell to it. Many of them do and fragrances just aren't going to cover it up. You want a soap that actually smells good!
You want very clear Glycerin soap base without the heavy amber color and is made with 'real' saponified coconut oil, not chemicals. You want REAL soap, not a bunch of chemicals from the lab
Soap Crafters Company is highly recommended for your Glycerin Melt and Pour soap making supplies. Whether you are a first time hobbyist or a professional, you will find both retail and wholesale pricing available right on the web site.
Make all kinds of wonderful and beautiful soaps at home.
Glycerin Melt & Pour Soap is so easy to use in crafting! Just about any fragrance or perfume can be added. Melt it on your stove in a double boiler, or in your microwave. Then add all your wonderful fragrances, colors, herbs, flowers, fruits, and your personal creative touch. It is so clear that you can even put toys inside each bar!
You can color it, craft it, pour into fun molds, cut it with cookie cutters! The list is endless. It is the most versatile crafting soap. Many professional soap makers use only glycerin Melt & Pour soap to make their beautiful creations.
Glycerin Melt and Pour soap is sold as transparent (you can see right through it) or Opaque (it is a solid white color). Both can be colored with specially designed color tabs.
There is a great deal of difference between suppliers. You want a Glycerin Melt and Pour Soap Base that doesn't set up really, really fast. You want to be able to work with your soap for a minute before it sets up.
It MUST be very gentle on the skin. Make sure it doesn't have a terrible smell to it. Many of them do and fragrances just aren't going to cover it up. You want a soap that actually smells good!
You want very clear Glycerin soap base without the heavy amber color and is made with 'real' saponified coconut oil, not chemicals. You want REAL soap, not a bunch of chemicals from the lab
Soap Crafters Company is highly recommended for your Glycerin Melt and Pour soap making supplies. Whether you are a first time hobbyist or a professional, you will find both retail and wholesale pricing available right on the web site.
Bath BOMBS!
Get a bottle of good quality witch hazel (skip the terrible stuff in the drug store) and a "good" quality adjustable fine spritzing bottle. The
recipe is really simple.
1 part citric acid
3 parts baking soda
Witch hazel
EO/FO
Any natural colorings...food coloring is good too.
Any herbs, dried flowers, etc you want to use (about 1/2 a tsp for a small batch, 1 tsp for a larger batch. Less is more.
A decent sized fork for mixing...I use my hands.
A teaspoon for packing the molds... I use my hands here also.
Weigh out your baking soda and citric acid in the ratios above. Dump them together in a bucket, large bowl, whatever. Get all the lumps out with a fork or spoon (crushing). Add your dry colorings (clays, leaves, herbs, roots, flowers etc in small amounts) Add your EO/FO drop by drop till you get the strength of scent you want. Mix well...I put mine in large plastic zip lock bag to mix then pour in a bowl for spritzing.......Mist the mixture with the witch hazel, stir in well. Keep misting and mixing till you get a consistency that will stick together in your hand. It doesn't take much witch hazel, so be careful... When right consistency, press mixture into molds firmly, pack it down good... turn over on hard flat surface if it stays together without breaking you have it right...if it breaks put back in bowl and spritz a LITTLE more....then pack in mold again and turn over after a while you will get the feel for this...let dry several hours and package......I did get this recipe off the
lists and heavily snipped it for my own use not expecting to give it out so don't know who to thank for it...BUT after ruining many ingredients and having bombs get funky with growths must say this is an excellent recipe and seems to really hold up for long time I have some that are 6 months old and still going strong...I package mine in small plastic containers...and make them about 6oz or close to it sell at 5oz for 3.00 better to be overweight then under....
Get a bottle of good quality witch hazel (skip the terrible stuff in the drug store) and a "good" quality adjustable fine spritzing bottle. The
recipe is really simple.
1 part citric acid
3 parts baking soda
Witch hazel
EO/FO
Any natural colorings...food coloring is good too.
Any herbs, dried flowers, etc you want to use (about 1/2 a tsp for a small batch, 1 tsp for a larger batch. Less is more.
A decent sized fork for mixing...I use my hands.
A teaspoon for packing the molds... I use my hands here also.
Weigh out your baking soda and citric acid in the ratios above. Dump them together in a bucket, large bowl, whatever. Get all the lumps out with a fork or spoon (crushing). Add your dry colorings (clays, leaves, herbs, roots, flowers etc in small amounts) Add your EO/FO drop by drop till you get the strength of scent you want. Mix well...I put mine in large plastic zip lock bag to mix then pour in a bowl for spritzing.......Mist the mixture with the witch hazel, stir in well. Keep misting and mixing till you get a consistency that will stick together in your hand. It doesn't take much witch hazel, so be careful... When right consistency, press mixture into molds firmly, pack it down good... turn over on hard flat surface if it stays together without breaking you have it right...if it breaks put back in bowl and spritz a LITTLE more....then pack in mold again and turn over after a while you will get the feel for this...let dry several hours and package......I did get this recipe off the
lists and heavily snipped it for my own use not expecting to give it out so don't know who to thank for it...BUT after ruining many ingredients and having bombs get funky with growths must say this is an excellent recipe and seems to really hold up for long time I have some that are 6 months old and still going strong...I package mine in small plastic containers...and make them about 6oz or close to it sell at 5oz for 3.00 better to be overweight then under....
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